원정 개요

Approach: KTM to Tembathang by Jeep. From Tembathang trekking to BC in 4 days.
Day 1: Tembathang to Chhendang
Day 2: to Ne-Pemachhal
Day 3: to Palmothang
Day 4: to BC

BC 12/04 4700m on rocky moraine near Jugal Glacier
ABC 14/04 5200m at the base of East Face
C1 02/05 5700m on small ledge in East Face
Smt 03/05 by Um Hong-Gil Um, Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, Lama Babu Sherpa at 3:40 pm
04/05 by Baek Jong-Min, Koo Eun-Soo, Kim Dong-Jin Eom Tae-Chul at 8:30 am.

First summit push started on 26/04 at 10 pm from high camp. It was a 24-hour push, that brought them to the altitude of 6300m, where they had to turn back because of bad weather. Everyone back to high camp on 27/04 at 10-12 pm. Everyone back to BC in the morning of 28/04.

On 28-29/04 whole team flew back to KTM to attend festivities of the 50th anniversary of Nepal-Korea Friendship.

On 01/05 Joung Je-Gyun and Byeon Jun-Ki abandoned expedition because of work.

On 01-02/05 the team flew back to BC. On 02/05 Um Hong-Gil and Lakpa Dendi Sherpa by helicopter from base camp to high camp.

Rest of the team hiked to high camp the same day. Team had decided after first summit push to establish another camp to start a new summit push from there. On 02/05 Lakpa Dendi Sherpa established C1, rest of the team followed.

Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, Lama Babu Sherpa and Um Hong-Gil started for the summit from C1 on 03/05 at 1 am and reached the top at 3:40 pm. Good views from the top, clear sky. Back to high camp at 8:30 pm, next day back to BC.

Beak Jong-Min, Koo Eun-Soo, Kim Dong-Jin and Eom Tae-Chul set off from C1 on 03/05 at 10 pm. At the top at 8:30 am the next day. Everyone down to high camp at 2 pm.

Members:
Um Hong-Gil S)
Joung Je-Gyun (HP: 6300m)
Byeon Jun-Ki (HP: 6300m)
Beak Jong-Min (S)
Koo Eun-Soo (S)
Kim Dong-Jin (S)
Eom Tae-Chul(S)

Hired :
Lakpa Dendi Sherpa (S)
Lama Babu Sherpa (S)
Min Bahadur Lama (HP: 6300m)
Dame Sherpa (HP: 5500m)


Left BC on 06/05 Um Hong-Gil, Lhakpa Dendi, Lama Babu; on 07/05 rest of team.

Members at end: 5
Sherpas above BC: 4
Climbing route: East Face
Oxygen use: Not taken, not used
Fixed rope: 3500m
Records: First Ascent
Other peaks: None

Accidents: Avalanche occurred on 21/04 at 5500m, burying Dame Sherpa. He was rescued on time and sustained only minor injuries. Flown out by helicopter and hospitalized for two days.

Team held permit for Jugal 2, but made no attempt.