원정 개요

Approach: Mera 2x/Pangboche

BC 23/04 5350m
C1 26/04 5900m
C2 27/04 6440m
C3 20/05 7100m
C4 22/05 7900m
HPt 22/05 7900m by McGill, Kami Nuru
Smt 23/05 by Sabin Magar at 5:30 am.

On 28/04, McGill reached the Bergschrund, slept another night at C4 and returned to BC on 29/04.

On summit rotation, McGill slept at C1 and C2 for two nights. On 20/05 the weather turned and when she was on her way to C4, it was very windy. She was using a Black Diamond Jumar which completely froze in the high winds and white-out conditions. It was stuck to the rope. McGill and Pasang spent one hour trying to get it off the rope. The jumar was then broken and they returned to C3 where they spent another night. Kami Nuru and Sabin Magar had come up from C2 and Pasang descended the following day as he had given his jumar to McGill.

On 22/05 Kami Nuru, McGill and Magar left C3 for C4, but on the Yellow Band, McGill had an asthma attack which truly slowed her down It took her 13 hours to reach C4 where she arrived at 7 pm.

The night was quite good, however, she descended to C2 on 23/05 where she felt better. She took a heli to Lukla but walked back up to Phakding to stay up there for another few days. Back to BC on 24/05. Then left BC on 25/05 by heli.

Sherpas above BC: 3

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C2 to high point to C2 by McGill
Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by Sherpas.