원정 개요

Summit push on 25th Sept only because of bad weather: much snowfall & strong winds & no C4 pitched. On 23rd Sep summit party left BC for C1. 24th C4 & that midnight started for top, climbed all night & next day & on top 25th 6 pm (ascent disputed). No stop during this ascent through waist deep snow. Left summit 6:50 pm after taking pictures, made biv at 7850m at 8 pm in snowhole but did not sleep. Left snowhole at 5 am on 26th & reached C3 10:30 am & rested there, then down to BC at 5:20 that night. Summiters took food & water up from C4 but not sleeping bag. No other summit bids after this, but 2 parties had tried earlier. Both tried to make C4 at 7200m but bad weather drove them down from 7200m.

Lee Young-Cheol & Nawang to Kathmandu 28th Sept & Lee immediately to Seoul hospital.

Koreans claim to have made summit, but disputed. Polish-Italian party report summiters footprints stopped at foremost lesser summit.


Bianchi (Wielicki team member) - 9 Oct 92

Koreans reached one of many peaks 50-80m lower than highest, about 500m north of highest Italians took pix of their footprints stopping at this peak. Italians followed their footprints. (Wielicki had been to summit before by new route and knew which was highest). Wielicki knew this was not highest. Koreans had good weather like Italians 3 days later.