원정 개요

BC as same as Czechs in 1979
C1 on moraine of Lakya Glacier
C3 at same site as Czechs in 1979
High point on North Ridge.

Route is dangerous if someone is seriously sick in C3 at 5700m col because to get to glacier and safety one has to climb up twice and if heavy snow fall, again danger in couloir. Better route is from west and Rey hopes to do this in 1994. Started fixing ropes just past C2 because many crevasses in glacier below C2, which was on rock.

West side of N Ridge: no steep slopes; icefall that probably be avoided; crevasses in glacier.

Oct 3rd Gorkha
Oct 14th, BC 4250m west side Larkya Glacier
Oct 16th, C1 4600m middle Larkya Glacier
Oct 17th, C2 5200m beginning of equipment of col leading to ridge. Lot of snow.

Oct 18th bad weather. All members except two in C2. Equipment of 150m more in the col. Deep fresh snow (1.50m) and Dumas and Chevillon taken in a small wind slab avalanche (not injured) at highest point reached by expedition (by them).

Oct 19th snow again during the night.
C2 carried down to C1
Oct 20th, everybody back to base camp.

Reason why the climbing has been stopped:

1. Lack of time in such snow conditions: 2 days were necessary to climb
half of a couloir which normally would take one day.
2. Dangerous snow conditions (2 members were caught in an avalanche
fortunately without any harm for they were strongly secured on fixed ropes.
3. Announcement of the death on 13 Oct at Chorang from falling stone
friend Bernard leading the trekking group which started with us in
Gurkha. Deputy leader Titus especially shocked by death of a friend and
leader about concerned trekker's crossing Larkya La and went with Delorme
through night of 18th to go to them. So now 3 climbers gone from climb.

Note regarding the altitude of the camps on the attached map: due to altimeter checking with the altitude of Larkya pass we think Larkya La could be at 5000m only. If the given altitude of Larkya La is right 200m must be added to all camp altitudes (BC 4450m/C1 4800m/C2 5400m).

Note regarding equipment left on the mountain: everything has been removed from camps, but 300m fixed ropes have been left in the col due to avalanche danger.