원정 개요

BC same as Bonington BC
ABC on glacier
Biv 1 at bottom of rock
Biv 2 on rock.

Reached BC 9 am & Lafaille walked over to it. At start of climbing went to 6200m, then made 1st biv at 6500m. 2 nights & down to BC because weather not good. 7th Oct to ABC. Lafaille & Beghin climbed on face 8th Oct night to 1st biv. 9th Oct in night to 7000m. 11th Oct climbed rock & biv in difficult place, sitting on ice in not very good weather ("a lot of snow, a lot of wind"). 11th Oct up to end of difficulty at 7400m, but weather not good & down in morning.

Beghin fell when rope came away from mountain at about 7100m, not seen again & not possible he survived more than 1000m fall (perhaps 2000m). Lafaille soloed down to 2nd biv at 7000m where stayed nights of 11th & 12th, then down to 1st biv for 1 night & 1 day, then in night of 14th descended to ABC in difficult snow conditions on glacier & tent crushed under snow, so on down to Slovene's BC 15th afternoon very tired. Slovenes did no climbing to rescue Lafaille whom they could see slowly descending towards glacier.

Route of French a new biv between British & Japanese routes - is a good line but very dangerous when sun is on face & very small places for biv. Another problem is ice on rock - impossible to rest on face, wearing helmet all the time because of falling rock.

20th Gabarrow will fly in Bell helicopter to look in area of glacier & a ledge 1000m higher for Beghin's body. If body seen, will try to recover it; if none seen, search ended.

This was Lafaillle's 1st time climbing with Beghin. He has very good experience & we were a good cocktail: "more technique from one & more experienced from Pierre." Pierre the best climber in Himalaya from France.

On this face is good to climb quickly & there is much technical climbing, Lafaille climbed as quickly as Beghin: "it is not possible to survive if you fall on this face."


Ministry of Tourism - 18 Oct 92

LO with Annapurna I returned today with Lafaille: Ministry of Tourism say LO reported:

Beghin ahead slightly - sudden big sound, Beghin somersaulted 3 times, rock falling and hit Lafaille and broke his right hand. Erected tent where he was when rock hit. Shouted to get attention of Slovenes, but not heard. Slovenes and Sherpas searching with torchlight and he shouted, they found him and was brought to Slovenes BC. Slovenes doctor treated him. Lafaille is giving confused answers. LO gave no altitudes. Lafaille has not seen Beghin since Jean taken to Patan Hospital.