원정 개요

From Tom Lafaille Facebook, 1 Oct 2023

This September, Mike and I took off for Nepal.

After a short August in the Chamonix valley, it was time to get back in a base camp for a few rough nights. But this one is really comfy, and makes a nice change from the moraines of the Baltoro!

I’d already been to the Annapurna Valley as a kid, in 2008, to do the classic Tour. I remember the base camp on the south face... A 11km wide, 3000m high monster. Unimaginable, until you’ve seen it.

But here the plan was quite different.

Last winter, on the Aiguille du Midi lift, Mike shared his autumn project with me. It’s a magnificent 7000-meter peak, untouched by skis, which has only seen 3 alpine climbs. He’s already attempted it in 2019. He first introduced it to me, showing me the photos, and I was hooked.

However, the rest of the adventure turned out to be less exciting. Upon our arrival at the BC, it became evident that the monsoon was still in full force. There was a substantial amount of rain, and snow was present between 6500 and 7000, displaying extensive fractures, indicating a highly unstable snowpack.

What was initially planned as our acclimatization summit transformed into a challenge. The 500m slopes leading up to the 7000ish summit were steep, with inclines of approximately 35° (perfect for avalanches).

Accessing the face became immediately compromised. The access gully to the glacier became a waterfall during these scorching days, and the moraines continuously fell apart throughout the day.

It’s an experience, a very frustrating one. Initially, there’s hope, but eventually, you find yourself questioning why the hell you’re here.

But, through this type of adventure, there’s growth. You come to understand yourself better, it propels you forward in pursuing your aspirations and desires.