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Expedition Report: Himlung Expedition for Danish Clients, September 2023

Introduction:

In September 2023, the Himlung Expedition aimed to deliver an unforgettable mountaineering adventure to our Danish clients, culminating at the impressive elevation of 7126 meters. Led by Antoft Line, the team consisted of 9 clients, each eager to conquer the heights of Himlung.

Client Information:

The expedition comprised Lone Duval, Kim Madsen, Liana Lucich, Steffen Oesegaard, Niels Toft, Martin Hansen, Martin Slot and Martin Ploug, with Antoft Holmby serving as the Team Leader. Ang Chering Sherpa joined as the Nepali climbing guide, ensuring local expertise and support.

Expedition Timeline:

Commencing in Kathmandu on September 25, the team journeyed to Koto by September 30, eventually arriving at Himlung Base Camp (4850m) on October 6. Base camp preparations and expedition readiness activities were scheduled from October 7 to October 22.

Activities:

Throughout this period, the group engaged in various activities to enhance their readiness:

Acclimatization Hikes: Scheduled acclimatization hikes helped participants adjust to the altitude and rugged terrain.

Technical Training: Clients underwent extensive technical training covering essential mountaineering skills such as rope-handling, ice-axe techniques and crevasse rescue.

Summit Push: A meticulously planned summit push aimed to capitalize on favorable weather windows, though unfortunately, adverse weather conditions and some members not feeling fully fit or confident led to its cancellation at the last moment.

A Summary of the Push Towards Summit:

1st Day: Puja and hike to Camp 1. As with all expeditions, puja was commenced on the first day for a successful summit. Then the team started towards Camp 1. Not all the members were able to reach Camp 1 on the first day. Time taken was 6/7 hours.

2nd Day: Camp 1 was setup by the climbing Sherpas. All members slept for one night at Camp 1 for acclimatization.

3rd Day: Members went up to Camp 2, then returned back to Base Camp. Climbing Sherpas setup Camp 2.

4th Day: Rest Day for members at Base Damp.

5th Day: Rest Day for members at Base Damp and the climbing Sherpas set up food and rope for Camp 3.

6th Day: Climb to Camp 1. Eight members were able to climb to Camp 1 and one member returned to Base Camp.

7th Day: Climb to Camp 2. Seven members were able to climb to Camp 2 and one more member returned to Base Camp.

8th Day: Climb to Camp 3. All remaining seven members were able to climb to Camp 3.

9th Day at Midnight: The push for the summit was started with the target to reach the summit by 9 am and return to Camp by 12 noon. However at around 3 am, one member returned due to dehydration. At 4:30 am two more members returned due to fatigue. At 5 am, two more members returned due to not feeling well. By 6 am the remaining two members also returned back while at around 6500 meters. The guide had advised them that they could use the two cylinders of oxygen and push for the summit, but the members declined to use oxygen. Keeping the members safety in mind, the lead guide abandoned the push for the summit and returned with the members. Phurba Thile Sherpa did go up to the summit and hoisted the Kipling Travels banner.

Challenges Faced:

The expedition encountered several challenges:

Adverse Weather: Unpredictable weather, including high winds and heavy snowfall, hindered progress and ultimately thwarted summit attempts.

Altitude Sickness: Some clients experienced symptoms of altitude sickness, necessitating careful monitoring and adjustments to the itinerary.

Key Learnings:

The expedition underscored the importance of:

Flexibility: Adaptation to changing weather conditions and client needs proved crucial for ensuring safety and success.

Preparation: Comprehensive preparation, encompassing physical conditioning, technical proficiency, and contingency planning, mitigated risks and optimized outcomes.

Accommodations: Tented camps at strategic altitudes facilitated acclimatization and supported summit endeavors.

Outcome:

Despite the team's determination and efforts, adverse weather conditions forced a retreat from above Camp 3, leading to an unsuccessful summit attempt.

Conclusion:

While the expedition did not reach its ultimate goal, the experience fostered a profound sense of achievement among participants, deepening their reverence for the majestic Himalayas.


Editor's Note:

Expedition report and Ministry file dates disagree.