원정 개요

The climber trio flying to BC on 9/26. At his arrival, there was only the Elite team with 2 climbers who would soon leave BC. 28/10 marked the glacier up to the Eiger. On the 29th they started acclimation to 6050m to sleep. Cloudy weather with visibility of 50m. At dawn it had snowed and descended into BC in front of bad weather forecast with a front set to reach Dhaulagiri between 3-4 Oct. Heavy 1m snowfall in BC.

On Oct 1st the climbers of Manaslu reached BC who were also going to attempt Dhaulagiri. After a week in BC with bad weather, they also left BC in the face of bad weather forecast (info via Allie Pepper).

• 6/10: climb back to 6500m. Shops buried in snow, locating them with probes.

• 7/10: Ascent to 6700m. The next day they want to reach 7200-7400m. There is a lot of snow coming down.

• 8/10: The team exceeds 7000m and spend the night at 7200m.
Report of very strong winds:

• 9/10: Going down to BC. Abildaev reports they were a bit tired, but everything was fine. Although the acclimation trip was tricky with lots of snow and yesterday a hurricane wind blew all day long in excess of 70 mph, but today they got a small bonus. On the descent to C1, they tried to find an object again (descendor?) they lost on the first exit and managed to find it buried under 2m of snow. The are now resting and plan to recover for at least three davs.


From the Himalayan Times, Oct 14, 2023

A Russian woman climber has gone missing when she fell into crevasse above 6000m on Mt. Dhaulagiri this morning.

According to sources, the incident occurred at around 11:25 am when a three-member team of Russian climbers attempted to climb Dhaulagiri without using base camp or Sherpa support.

The missing woman climber has been identified as Nadezhda Oleneva, 38.

"She has fallen into crevasse from around 6680m," sources said. Her teammates- Roman Abildaev and Radom Kashapov- who are now above the base camp, reported that she has fallen some 500m below as per the GPS coordinates.