원정 개요

On 6th Oct did recce of possible line up snow slope of south side of East Ridge but very dangerous seracs and falling stones in possible route through seracs, so decided to do Japanese route on S(SW) Ridge from east and occupied ABC on 7th, the next day. Gary and Andrew then up to C1, where left loads before down to ABC, 9th more loads to C1 and then the snow came after one rest day. 14th C1 occupied by Andrew, Gary and Moti Lal Gurung. 15th recce to col on S Ridge of Dome amongst seracs; here it became technical. 16th same trio up from C1 on to Ridge and made C2. 17th summit bid but above C2 a snow ice wall so should have taken gear for one more camp but had decided in C2 would go for top that day. Climbed over wall and found snow dome above that; climbed over dome and now at rock step on final ridge at 4:00 pm. Now mist and clouds and down in dark to C2. Now needed rope to go up wall and to make another camp; besides were running out of gas and time.