원정 개요

From Sam Butler:

Summit team left C3 at 1:15 am on 29 Sept, summited at 11:30 am-12:15 pm, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C3 at 18:30 pm.

Shin-deep snow from C3, high winds at the plateau below the second summit, clear sky and windy on the summit. White-out soon after summiting, with snow and fog making navigation back below 7000m difficult. Very slow descent. 18 hr total summit day.


From Simone Molter:

1st summit push on 21 Sept alone without other members, only with small Sherpa team to find and explore the route and without supplemental oxygen. Abandoned because of Sherpa/company reason. Started climbing late at 4 am, arrived at almost 7300m at 2 pm. Chief Sherpa decided to turn around.

2nd summit push: fullmoon night, deep snow, strong wind coming up in the morning and above 7000m. Mostly no fixed ropes. Climbing short-roped or alone (myself) clear sky at the summit. 30 minutes later white-out and and a snowstorm in the descent. Arrived back at C3 around 8 pm in the evening. Molter on second summit attempt had no personal Sherpa support.

Ronald Pieters and his Sherpa Paljor did not reach the summit because of the lack of oxygen.

Oxygen: Ronald Pieters from C3, the other members after approx. 1 hour later, Molter started at 6700m because of better acclimatisation and from the reason, that the group was faster with using oxygen and she was climbing without Sherpa, so she want to hold the pace with the other climbers. All Sherpas did not use supplemental oxygen.