원정 개요

BC at site of Japanese BC just vacated
Biv 1 above Col on NE Ridge
Biv 2 at end of NE Ridge (same as Japanese just before them).

This expedition reached Dhaulagiri I without permission.

Only 1 tent each, had 18 kg loads. from BC to top in true alpine-style. Had acclimatized on Dhampus (summit 3 Nov, 3 nights on French pass, 2 nights on Dhampus pass). Began Dhaulagiri ascent 9 Nov 1:30 am. 11 Nov started ascent (9:30 am cold wind before) thinking too see route only but weather so good kept on to top (had gas for only one night more) via ridge without going onto face at all. Reached summit 2:00 pm and biv at 6000m at 10:00 pm. 12 Nov arrived BC 12:00 noon. Used Japanese ropes on ridge also useful, but not necessary. Had to wait for Japanese to leave mountain since French had no permit.