원정 개요

From Brooke Wiley (SummitClimb.com):

On the morning of the 12th Jason and I moved from basecamp to Camp 1, about 4 and a half miles with 4500 feet of vertical gain. There were essentially no technical elements to this movement, just a long/steep hike. We found the tent we had rented from the tea house, settled in, and focused on quick recovery and rehydration. We were able to stash some gear that we wouldn’t need to take any higher at the tent (trekking poles, 3 seasons boots, etc). We started the next day at about 8:00 am and pushed through the very technical Yellow Tower to Camp 2. The Yellow Tower had about 3 pitches of true exposed vertical rock climbing at about 5.7 level. The whole route was well established and well anchored fixed lines. Going from Camp 2 to Camp 3 we passed through what we felt like was the most dangerous part of the climb, The Grey Couloir on the Grey Tower, due to lots of loose rock and rock fall caused by other climbers. We mitigated this by establishing clear communication with the other climbing groups and moving through with no overhead climbers. We got to Camp 3, around 3 in the afternoon and got prepped for the next mornings summit push. We headed for the summit at about 4 am and were met by the other Summit Climb teams who had stayed at Camp 2. Using the fixed lines we pushed through the semi vertical snow portions along the side of the Dablam and summited just before 8 o’clock. It was a a perfect day, the weather was amazing and the only traffic on the mountain was the Summit Climb teams (total of 6 of us). The summit felt surreal, absolute elation mixed with disbelief. Even sitting here writing this a few days later, I’m still wrapping my mind around it. After quick pictures, we pushed through the descent and made it back to the basecamp tea house by evening time.


Note from Paul Spackman:

Jason was just behind Par Linden and summited at around 06:50-07:00, then Jason waited on the summit for Brooke who arrived at around 08:00. Took their summit photo together and then descended together. I remember passing Jason and Brooke together coming down as I was going up the final fixed line.