Pol-Pol Bergara Dhaulagiri Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
Dhaulagiri I · 1992 · 가을 (3) · Spain
원정 개요
BC at normal site
C1 above icefall, which was in very bad condition
C2 at North Col
C3 at beginning of NE Ridge on wide slope
High point at C3.
All arrived BC in rain, including BC staff and porters sick with bronchitis, etc. 4-5 days later a few climbers up to C1 to put supplies, then down and up for one night but not in good condition and down.
De Pablo only member who made serious attempt to climb mountain: 1st time in early Oct slept in C1, up to C2, down and up again. 3rd Oct from C2 to C3, down to C2 that night. 4th snowfall began and 5th down to BC helping other Spanish expedition's 2 members to descend, one with bad frostbite. 10th Oct De Pablo from BC to C2, 11th C3, 12th stayed in C3 and 13th afternoon big storm started and down to C2. 14th to BC in deep snow and avalanches every where. Porters had arrived at BC on 15th evening by prior arrangement, so 16th left BC.
1 member went to C2 only; not mentally prepared for the summit attempt on Dhaulagiri. Lazkano not interested in climb because tired from too much climbing elsewhere earlier in the year. Guenaga not really a climber but reached C2. When arrived at BC, other Spanish had fixed rope in icefall. De Pablo did not climb with members of other expedition.
- 내부 원정 ID1119
- 원본 EXPIDDHA192303
- 대장Jon Lazkano
- 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6600m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유악천후 (4)
참가자 4명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jon Lazkano Agirre | Spain | Leader | - | - | - |
| Enrique-Julian (Kike) De Pablo Benito | Spain | Climber | - | - | - |
| Damaso Gallastegui Aguirre | Spain | Climber | - | - | - |
| Luis Guenaga Zangitu | Spain | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |