원정 개요

Approach: Island Peak

Pumori:

EBC 27/04 5350m
EC1 03/05
EC2 04/05 6400m
EC3 05/05 7050m

PABC 11/05 5700m
PC2 12/05 6500m
Smt 13/05 by Prakash Sherpa, De Jong at 7:07 am.

De Jong acclimatised with Mateo Isaza from Colombia and on 06/05 he touched 7200m and descended to C2. Back to BC on 07/05.

On on 11/05, they arrived at ABC at 3 pm and left ABC for C2 at 11 pm. Conditions were good, on the upper section the incline was quite steep – sections up to 90 degrees. They climbed for about 9 hours. They used the fixed lines placed by Dawa Steven’s team. It was very windy up on the ridge, where C2 was.

On summit day, they left C2 at about midnight. They placed only one screw and then climbed unprotected. Weather was rough but conditions were good. They used two ice tools. They circumvented a vertical wall at about 7000m to the left. Just before the summit, there was a huge crevasse, but they could circumvent it. When they reached the summit, it was very cold and windy.

On the descent they down-climbed most of the way, but had three abseils. They returned to EBC where they arrived at 5 pm.


Nuptse:

C2 19/05 6400m
C3 20/05 6850m
Smt 21/05 by Prakash Sherpa, De Jong at 8 am.

Team left C3 at 8:30 pm on 20/05. It was snowing when they left. The conditions were good. Very mixed. Partially blue ice, partially deep snow. The ridge was very challenging and sugar snow. They stayed about 5 min on the real summit as it was very uncomfortable and then they moved to a lower point. They rappelled down or arm wrapped and descended to C3, where they had a rest. It was very hot and when they descended to C2 they had a white-out so crossing the crevasses was tricky.

On 22/05 back to BC. Left BC on 24/05 by heli.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used


From Prakash, 15 May 2023:

Alpine-style climbing on Pumori is a challenging and rewarding experience that requires a high level of skill, experience, and physical fitness. It is not recommended for beginners or inexperienced climbers, but for those who are up for the challenge, it can be an unforgettable adventure.

The climb starts from the high camp at 5650meters and involves ascending steep ice and rock walls, traversing crevasses, and navigating through challenging terrain. Climbers need to be skilled in ice and rock climbing, as well as in using crampons and ice axes.