원정 개요

C2 in Westerm Cwm
C3 on SW Face
C4 on West Shoulder
C5 at bottom of Hornbein.

One of our problems was spindrift being blown around (and almost suffocating us) when almost no wind on SW Face and Cwm was still. This expedition was first to arrive at BC, put in icefall route and handed over to others to mountain. Had also sugggested where tracks between tents should be, where toilets should be after Galicians (Quinteiro) and Dutch threw stones at each other for walking through their camps. After New Zealand's Sherpas accident, got all expedition's doctors together where scratches were, etc. On SW Face went almost straight up to shoulder. 1st real technical problems were icefall and steep ice section between C2 and C3; then Hornbein Couloir top, just when you think you are through this difficulties, there is steep rock. On 18th May Bell and Hughes got to site of C6 and stashed their tent and oxygen bottles in such strong wind they had to descend and this point never reached again. Had reached C5 on 26th April but 27th started to snow and not till 6th May were able to get back to C5 because of snow conditions and wind and to rest lower camps. Started work on Couloir on 12th. Were always going to be a week behind the other because of length of route during other's success period 12-15th May, weather actually kept good only in mornings and there after 15th not even then.

Hughes, Bell, Barnes and Batson spent 4 days at C5 with Hughes and Bell going to C6 site [to stash oxygen] on 19th and to go for top on 20th. Assisting on carrying loads to C6 site were Babu Tshering, Ang Temba, Phinzo (Thulo Phinzo) and another Phinzo (Sano Phinzo).

Had bartered gear for more rope to fix from other teams. Fixed entire route from 6700m to 8500m. 70 days on mountain, Icefall to Icefall.

Williams left BC 17 May since father-in-law had died.