원정 개요

Approach: Khumbu trail

BC 17/03 at Lobuche Village (4940m)
Biv 22/03 5500m
Smt 23/03 by both members (low summit of 6090m)

Route: Lowe-Kendall 1986 route: E Face couloir to SE Ridge (normal rte)

• Abstract:

Huserka and his girl friend were in Khumbu in March, having just 20 days in Nepal to spend. They just hired one porter and made no real BC, but stayed in Lobuche village.

The couple repeated the Lowe-Kendall route (WI 4+) on Lobuche East with one bivouac in the face, summiting the day after in heavy fog at the "trekking summit” (6090m), the main summit (6119m) lying further along the ridge. The route itself, found in very snowy conditions, felt rather like WI5+/M5 according to Ondrej. The duet descended by the normal route down to Lukla on the same day.

• Schedule:

09/03: arrival in Kathmandu

10/03: KTM flight to Lukla

10/03 to 17/03: acclimatization trek to Everest BC and Kalapatthar

17/03 to 22/03: stayed in Lobuche village waiting for better weather. It was snowing a lot. Couple managed some treks around the area (approach under the wall, Kongma la pass).

22/03: at 4 am duet started its approach from Lobuche village to Lowe-Kendall couloir on Lobuche East. There was really a lot of new snow, so the approach was crazy hard. They started to climb about 1 pm.

The couloir Lowe-Kendall WI4+, was dry. There was only thin ice and lot of new snow. It was harder in such conditions (feeling like WI5+, M5+). At 9 pm team set up its tent 1 pitch below the ridge.

23/03: They climbed one pitch and joined the normal route. On the normal route Eva used the fixed rope, whereas Ondrej continued to the top without using it. The trek to the top was made with 4 people in front (2 Nepal guides and 2 climbers).

At circa 2 pm they reached Lobuche East trekking top (6090m) and started the descent. There were many clouds and the main peak was somewhere behind them.

At 9 pm they were back in Dukla lodge. Left BC on 24 March.

24/03: They continued to Pangboche
25/03: Pangboche-Namche Bazar
26/03: Exploration trek Namche Bazar-Thame-Namche Bazar
27/03: Namche-Lukla
28/03: Lukla-Kathmandu by helicopter
29/04: duet flew home from Kathmandu
01/04: back to Slovakia.

Fixed rope: none

Sherpas above BC: none

Oxygen: not taken, not used