원정 개요

Pratt & Ang Phurba went to C3 on 20th & 2 members slept there one night & down to C2 & BC on 22nd & Sterbova never went up again. 3 May Pratt & Ang Phurba went up but Sterbova decided not to that day; same thing again 12th May & when she again decided not to go up; reaching C3 she had had great difficulty reaching camp at all (other 2 went to C2 to C3 in 4-1/2 hrs while she took 11 hrs & perhaps would have not managed the last 50-100m if Pratt had not gone down the ropes to meet her; she wasn't strong enough, not fit enough. She left BC with Pratt. 12th May Pratt & Ang Phurba reached S Col; Ang Phurba immediately descended to C2 & never slept above C2. 15th May Pratt left C4 with Purto & Ang Rita at 2 am & together on top at 12 noon & back to C4. Pratt on 16th C4 to BC.

Pratt & Sterbova were a climbing pair until Sterbova failed to muster strength to go up from BC in May.

Smid last August injured his leg in parachute accident and had no confidence he could climb at all; every advance in ascents was a wonder to him. He arrived late at BC (23 April) after spending time at Gorak Shep, accimatizing on Pumori slopes and staying away from (avoiding) the traffic and garbage of BC from big commercial expeditions ("business is not mountaineering").

Smid and Shinov moves:

Smid - 23/4 - arrived BC
26/4 - to C2 with Shinov, then down to BC
1/5 - to C3
3/5 - attempted to reach C3 but turned back very tired at 7100m
4/5 - BC
9/5 - C2
11/5 - C3
12/5 - to S Col and down to C3 same day
13/5 - C2
15/5 - climbed up British to West Shoulder to see N Face and to C2
16/5 - BC
19/5 - left BC - spent few days in Namche
24/5 - arrived Kathmandu ex-Lukla

Shinov - 18/4 - arrived BC
22/4 - C2
24/4 - BC and Gorak Shep
25/4 - BC
26/4 - C2
27/4 - tried to reach C3 - back to C2
28/4 - C3
29/4 - tried to reach South Col turned back at 7800m very tired
and down to C2
30/4 - BC
31/4 to 11/5 - in BC or lower (3 days at Pheriche)
12/5 - BC to C3
13/5 - C2 again slightly sick
14/5 - BC
18/5 - left BC -> 25/5 KTM via Jiri