원정 개요

The story from Kangchenjunga, 8586m, May 18th 2023:

We arrived at BC Kangchenjunga, the world’s 3rd highest mountain, after 2 days of rest in Kathmandu. The same day we arrived in BC, we climbed up to C2. I was happy to feel in good shape. It took us 4 hours up to C2 where we had a good rest.

The following day, we climbed straight to C4. It was a long climb day of about 8 or 9 hours. At C4, we got a couple hours rest before the summit push.

Lama started in front together with the fixing team. There were a lot of climbers in C4 that were ready to summit. I started out at 8:30 PM with Gelu Sherpa and put on oxygen when we left C4.

After hours in pitch darkness, queuing with all the climbers, we realised we were on the wrong path. So, at 8200 meters, with everyone walking one after the other, we all had to turn around and walk back. This was stressful and difficult for all of us.

Daylight came as we got back on the right track. However, there was no fixed rope on this path. We decided to go with a main rope, only 3 of us: Lama, Gelu and me, just attached to each other. It is harder to climb without fixed rope but we continued up even though we were all tired.

We reached the summit at around 1 pm, after a 16-hour summit push. It was a super long push and an extremely hard mountain to climb with a lot of rocks.

On the summit, we were welcomed with awesome weather! We filmed, took pictures and started to climb back down. On the way, we had an accident where Gelu hurt his leg. He decided to rest in C4 with the other climbers, while Lama and I continued to BC.

After 28 hours we were down in BC. We had to wait an extra day for weather to clear for the helicopter to bring us to Lukla. This meant we could greet Gelu coming in to BC just one day after us.

I am so grateful for Lama having the energy to climb up with me again. This last mountain has been very difficult for all of us mentally and physically and I can't express how thankful I am for his strength and his help.

Thank you to my super strong sherpas Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa snd Gelu Sherpa from Seven Summit Treks.