원정 개요

Report from Avtandil Tsintzadze:

BC 22/04 5500m
C1 27-28/04 6200m (for both members and Avtandil’s Sherpa)
C2 06/05 6200m for Avtandil and Pema Sherpa
C3 12/05 6900m for Zurab
HPt See details in the route notes.

Fixed rope: Sherpa fixing team

Climb abandoned on 15 May due to lack of route preparation by the Sherpa fixing team.

Left BC on 16 May 2023.

Sherpas above BC: 1 for Avtandil (Pema Sherpa)

Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Avtandil Tsindzadze: HPt at C2/6200m on the night of the 6th May.

Zurab Kvestadze: Manaslu in 2021 without oxygen and sherpa support, Lhotse in 2022 without oxygen and sherpa support. HPt at 7300m/C4 on the 13th May.

Avtandil took full service above BC with a personal Sherpa from Satori called Pema Sherpa; Zurab climbed on his own above BC, using Satori’s services just at BC.

• Zurab:

27/04: first rotation to C1/6200m. Spent 2 nights there.
29/04: back to BC.
11/05: BC to C1. (2nd rotation)
12/05: to C3 6900m.
13/05: touched C4 7300m and went back to BC. Fixing team also went back to BC
from C4 on that same day.

• Avtandil:

First rotation (27 to 29th April) everyone from Satori made same dates.

Avtandil and his Sherpa had a second rotation on 6 May from BC to C2/6200m (C1 and C2 were at the same altitude); it was the highest point for Avtandil. On the day after, he went back down to BC.

From C1 to C2 is a very short distance, needing 30-40 minutes of climbing only.

• Third rotation/Summit push:

15th May Satori team started from BC for the summit push, but both members decided to stay at BC, this because the rope wasn't fixed to the top. In their opinion, the fixing team wasn't well organized and there were many issues, so that they preferred to give no summit attempt in such situation. The expedition was over.

On the 16th May, both members flew back from BC to Lukla then to KTM.

• Additional info:

Fixing team started from BC on the 15 May at 11 pm. Still the day before, the organization among the Sherpa rope-fixing team was still obscure. On the 18 May, most of the team started from C4. In fact the crew took the wrong turn in the Gangway starting on the 2003 route “La Luce del Nirvana”, reaching a high point of 8100m down a steep hard rock section. Only Kristin Harila and her Sherpas would make it eventually on this day, retreating down then using the normal route.