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2023 Busan Pangri Goldumba Expedition 2023

Goldum Peak · 2023 · 봄 (1) · S Korea

원정 개요

Approach: Bus to Syabrubesi, trekking via Kyanjin to BC.

BC 14/03 4700m (nNext to Langtang Glacier)
ABC1 4900m on glacier
ABC2 5000m on glacier
C1 27/03 5500m
C2 28/03 5800m
C3 10/04 6350m
Smt 11/04 by Park Jung-Yong, Jeong Ji-Hun Son Ho-Sung

Very long and dangerous approach along Langtang Glacier.

Summit on 11/04 at 12:44 pm. Started from C3 at 7:00 am. Waited for sunrise because of cold. On the summit for 20 minutes. Good weather on the top, clear views. Not windy, quite warm on the summit. After summit down to C2. At C2 at 6:30 pm. Next day to ABC2 (5000m). On 13/04 back to BC.

5 members flew out by heli from Kyanjin Gompa on 15/04. Only Park So-Jung walked to Syabrubesi, from there by jeep to KTM. Slight frostbite on toes and fingers by 5 members, but no one hospitalized.

Kim Dae-Il was tired and did not ascend from C3.

Park So-Jung stayed in BC because of dangerous approach to mountain.

Bok Jin-Young was expedition leader and managed ascent from C1. Didn’t intend to summit.

Crux: Dangerous serac zones at 5400m and 6500m. Seracs were threatening during sunny and warm days. From 5900m to 6400m some difficult pitches; mixed terrain, snow and ice. At times vertical ice wall.

Members:
Kim Dae-Il (HP C3)
Park So-Jung (HP BC)
Bok Jin-Young (HP C1)
Son Ho-Sung (S)
Park Jung-Yong Park (S)
Jeong Ji-Hun (S)

  • 내부 원정 ID11108
  • 원본 EXPIDGOLD23101
  • 대장Bok Jin-Young
  • 루트 (Route)NNE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6632m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Jin-Young BokS KoreaLeader---
Ji-Hun JeongS KoreaClimber성공--
Dae-Il KimS KoreaClimber---
Jung-Yong ParkS KoreaClimber성공--
So-Jung ParkS KoreaClimber---
Ho-Sung SonS KoreaClimber성공--

출처·참고문헌

https://explorersweb.com/koreans-first-ascent-pangri-goldumba/ · 2023 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
Goldum, First Known Ascent, via North-Northeast RidgeOh, Young-Hoon · 2023 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216831 · 2023 · 웹사이트 (5) ·