원정 개요

BC at usual NE Ridge route site.

Wind too strong; [Hasegawa and Ishii] were going for summit 3 Nov from C3, but went to ABC. After that Hasegawa tried alone for top on 5 Nov from ABC to top on same day. Left 1:00 am from ABC, but Chin coming down from C2 to ABC that day and Chin did not reach ABC and Hasegawa looked for him and thus diverted from summit bid. Waited for daylight, found Chin at 7:30 am in biv and came down with him. No other summit bid because 17th Nov time limit.

Hasegawa did not try face because ridge route leader Yoshio was in bad condition (stayed BC a while then left 20 Oct), so Hasegawa had to take over as ridge leader. He hopes to make a solo ascent of an 8000er sometime in future. Main problem was snowfall in which lost temporary C1 and then high winds broke tents at C3.

Chin died below BC apparently from altitude problem. Had climbed very slowly throughout, though went to 7100m in carry intended for C3.

4 members in temporary C1 in avalanche but not hurt and went to ABC. This only avalanche. 2 members slight frostbite.

Yoshio sick (nature of illness not clear to other members).


Shrestha, Tourism - 14 Nov 1983

Chin died on Chambabarg Kharka hill on Nov 7 at 13:00 hours. Left BC Nov 6 with expedition but could not keep pace with group and left behind and spent 6 Nov night in glacier below BC. Nov 7 Kazumi Nishihira (1956, Hiroshima) and 1 Sherpa (Dawa Thundup) went to look for him and found him in bad condition and took him down (carried) but at 1:00 pm Chin died. Miss Kei Inoue massaged Chin's heart but failed to revive him. Body cremated on 8 Nov on C. hill.

Health of all others good. Ishii and Toba arrived KTM last night.


Shrestha, Tourism - 24 Oct 1983

C1
C2 6600m (date?) established by Nobutaka Kusano and Masayoshi Utsumi.
All well. Weather continous snow, so climbing slow if necessary maybe ask 1 week extension [were granted 1 week extension].


Hasegawa & Chin - 16 Sept 1983

Hasegawa arrived KTM 15 Sept and leaves 19 Sept. Maybe waits for Chin's permit if leave KTM 19 Sept, arrive BC 1 Oct and climbs ridge first participating in making the camps and go as far as C3 at 7500m in perhaps 2 weeks to C3. Not to summit on this route then 1 week in BC and start solo ascent N Face maybe 25 Oct. 1 week to 10 days at first gate to about 6000m and return to BC. Finally push BC to summit with an summit 29 or 30 Oct and then descend via NW Ridge.

N Face route - new, not Pear route
On face difficult rock band at 7500m area
As Hasegawa descends ridge, other members may be in camps on ridge.

Hasegawa has climbed Aconcagua South Face solo in winter in cold and very windy weather, so Dhaulagiri in late Oct "no problem." Also been to 8000m on Everest in great cold. He can arrive BC and go up immediately since he goes to 7000m twice every year (thus is acclimatized). This will be 2nd solo ascent of Dhaulagiri I. Kamuro made solo ascent but used Canadians C3 and fixed rope.