원정 개요

Report from Mateo Isaza:

Approach: Pangboche

BC 13/04 5350m
C1 19/04 6000m
C2 21/04 6440m
C3 04/05 7100m
C4 14/05 7900m
Smt 15/05 by Isaza at 12 noon.

On second rotation, Isaza climbed as high as the Geneva Spur at 7400m on 05/05. He spent another night at C2 and then back to BC on 06/05.

For summit push, Isaza left BC on 11/05 and went to C2, where he spent two nights.

Started from C4 at 8 pm but managed to catch up with the people who left at 6 pm. “They were incredibly slow,” he said. Until the Balcony it was very congested, however, many people turned back on the Balcony as it was very windy.

When he reached the summit there was a couple who remained for another few minutes and then descended. He spent a few minutes on the summit, took a video and started his descent.

He found Phurba Sherpa, who later died, who was having problems at on the Hillary Step. His hands were frozen. Isaza found an oxygen bottle which was not empty and changed it for Phurba. Isaza spent about two hours with Phurba and rappelled down with him, however, it was very difficult. Just below the South Summit, he had to leave him as he was too exhausted. It was about 2 pm and he thinks that Phurba probably died shortly afterwards.

He continued to C4 where he arrived at 5 pm. On 16/05, he descended to C2. It was very windy. He wanted to go all the way to BC, but it took him a long time to get down the Yellow Band as there were too many people going up that day.

On 17/05 he stayed another night at C2 as he was waiting for the other team members. He found out that the Moldovan man had died, which upset him very much.

Back to BC 18/05.

Isaza did not use any pre-pitched tents. He carried all his own gear and pitched his own tents.

Left BC on 21/05 by helicopter due to upset stomach.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Sherpa above BC: None