한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition 2023

Everest · 2023 · 봄 (1) · Russia

원정 개요

Approach: Standard

BC 23/04
C1 25/04
C2 26/04
C3 16/05
C4 17/05
Smt 18/05 & 21/05

18 May Summiters:

Members left C4 at 10 pm on 17 May and summited between 8 am and 10 am and back to C4 between 2 pm and 4 pm. Continued descending C3 and slept there. Next day 19 May to C2 and the following day to BC by heli except Poliakov.

21 May Summiters:

Pugovkin around 6 am; he had to wait for his co climber for an hour. He did not use oxygen. He used drone to record the ski down.

Lazo around 7 am; skied down from he line reached C2 at 7 pm, slept there and evacuated on 22 May to Kathmandu and admitted to hospital due to brain edema. Leaving Kathmandu on 25 May.

Other high points:
Aloskins on 17 May
Golov on 17 May, frozen eyes, visually impaired.

Accidents: all members got sick; cough, respiration difficulty due to virus and bacteria in the whole BC area. Lazo suffered from brain edema.

Left BC on 20 May except two skiers.

Sherpa above BC: 16

Oxygen use at the time of summit push from C2 by all members and Sherpas from C3. The two skiers did not use oxygen.

Record: Ski down



From Abramov website:

Skiing from the top of Everest!

On May 21, 2023, an unprecedented event for Russian mountaineering took place: "Snow Leopard", high-altitude climber Vitaly Lazo became the first Russian to use skis to descend from the highest point of the planet. He started from a height of 8845 meters, which is only three meters below the top.

The ascent, organized by the "7 Summits Club" was made by Vitaliy together with the
"Snow Leopard" Anton Pugovkin, a comrade in the Death Zone Freeride project. Everest became the team's fifth 8-thousander.

The team climbed the summit with a special mission, which you can learn about by
watching the documentary "Oxygen 2. Everest" which has been filmed for over the past three months in partnership with "Gazprom-Media Holding" and its companies: "Central Partnership" and "Red Media".

On the descent, Vitaly Lazo asked for medical assistance, he was evacuated to a hospital in Kathmandu. Anton Pugovkin is feeling well.

  • 내부 원정 ID11076
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER23120
  • 대장Alex Abramov
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 25명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Alexander (Alex) AbramovRussiaLeader성공사용-
Ilja AloskinsLatviaClimber-사용-
Andrei GolovRussiaClimber-사용-
Kazbek GyulmagomedovRussiaClimber성공사용-
Michael KozlovIsraelClimber성공사용-
Vitali LazoRussiaClimber성공사용-
Alla MishinaRussiaClimber성공사용-
Evgeny MulyukovRussiaClimber성공사용-
Andrei PoliakovRussiaClimber성공사용-
Anton PugovkinRussiaClimber성공사용-
Jiban Kulung RaiNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Chhiring Tashi SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dawa SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dawa Geljen SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dawa Temba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lakpa SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lakpa Gelu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lakpa Nurbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Milan SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Ming Dukpa SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Ngima Thindu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nima Dindu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Gelu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Rinjen SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/alex-abramov-scales-everest-for-12-times · 2023 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://explorersweb.com/everest-no-o2-climbers/ · 2023 · 웹사이트 (5) ·