원정 개요

C2 before others C2 (more protected)
C3 on kidney rock right side of pillar lower spot
C4 midway up Lambert couloir, left side of big serac which divides normal
route, very close to rock wall of South Pillar.

"We are very happy on our route, only us, no problems." Had difficulty making C3: 1st problem was very wide crevasse and stonefall (which slightly injured 3 members with 2 smashed helmets) and 2nd was where to put it and had to make it on ice close to stone, very small place. Took much time to fix ropes to it and to make platforms.

1st summit [Exposito, Hernandez, Perez Grueso, Trabdo, Vegue, Dorje Pemba Jr.] attempt without oxygen on 11th May in middle of storm which aborted attempt below C4; turned back at 7900m.

2nd attempt with oxygen on 18th May successful: left C4 at 2:30 am in bad weather (snowing and windy and very cold), on top 11:50 am Gan, Juez, Portilla and 2 Sherpas at 12:15. Left top 1 pm in good weather following; returned to C4 5 pm in strong wind by Gan and Juez while other 3 summiters to C2 at 6:30 pm exhausted.

3rd summit attempt on 17th planned but could not go up from C4 that day; strong wind broke tents and down to C2; this attempt by 5 members and 2 Sherpas, same people who had made 1st attempt. 18th waited to see if weather improving, but getting worse, icefall getting dangerous and climb finished.

This was the only expedition this spring to climb pillar-corridor.