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Madison Mountaineering Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2023

Everest · 2023 · 봄 (1) · USA

원정 개요

Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Ever BC

BC 13/04 5350m
C1 24/04 6000m
C2 25/04 6440m
C3 21/05 7050m
C4 22/05 7900m
Smt 24/05 at 9:30 am by
* Rick Irvine,
* Peter Horseman,
* Erwin Visser,
* Debbie Bulten,
* Danah Ali,
* Eva Perglerova,
* Steven Hornik,
* Serge Larouche,
* Javier Beiza,
* Scott Webster,
* Terray Sylvester,
* Garrett Madison
and Nepal Sherpa Guide team of
* Ang Phurba Sherpa,
* Danah Tamang,
? Nim Norbu Sherpa,
* Pemba Hapse Sherpa (rechk),
* Dorje 2 Sherpa (rechk),
* Sange Sherpa,
* Lakpa Sherpa,
* Kam Dorchi Sherpa,
? Dawa Sherpa,
* Tenzi Sherpa,
* Dorji 1 Sherpa (rechk),
* Mingmar Sherpa (rechk),
* Mingma Sherpa,
* Dawa Tenzie Sherpa (rechk),
* Tshering Bhote

Summit team left C4 at 1 am. Straightforward climb. Madison stayed for about 2 hours on the summit. It was a very warm day. They descended to C4 where they arrived at about midday.



Nuptse:

C3 07/05 6800m

Summit on 08/05 by Madison, Melesk, Draves, Ang Phurba, Dawa Tenji Lhakpa, Ming Dorje at 12:45 pm.

Summit team left 12:30 am. The Sherpas had fixed to about 7600m the day before and during the climb the Sherpas fixed the rest of the summit. From the top of the ridge they went to the real summit individually (about 30m) for pics and descended again after about one hour. They abseiled down and descended to C2. On 09/05 returned to BC.

Anna Ott joined the team, but turned back after about 1 hour as it was too much.


Lhotse:

SUMMIT on 25/05 at 8 am by Madison, Beiza, Horsman, Bulten, Ali, Ang Phurba, Dawa Tenji, Lhakpa.

Lhotse summiters left Everest C4 at 1 am on 25/05. They descended to C4 Lhotse and continued to Lhotse. Summit at 8 am. Beautiful day and descended to C2.


Pieter Swart death:

Swart arrived at C4 as the first member of the team as he felt very good. On summit day, Swart decided to turn back shortly after starting as he felt unwell and preferred to rest for the descent. Swart waited until the team returned. He joined the Non Lhotse team and left C4 at 6 am to descend. He was very slow and when Madison heard on the radio that he was unwell, he waited at the Lhotse high camp for him. Swart was with Scott Webster, Terray Sylvester and Cacho Beiza. The 4 assisted Swart; however Swart was unable to walk at this point, so they began dragging him down; he passed away soon after at 7500m.

On 26/05 five Sherpas went up and put him on a stretcher and dragged him down to C2 where he was picked up on 27/05.


Team left BC on 28/05 by heli.

Flown out from C2
Peter Horsman
Erwin Visser
Danah Al Ali
Serge Larouche
Richard Draves
Eva Perglerova


Members no summit:

Mark King reached C2 on 2nd rotation. Did not feel well. Was flown out of C2 and left early.

Lask reached C2 on summit rotation. He felt sick and was flown out of C2.

Mayer got bad infection during the rest period in Namche. He had reached C2.

Smith reached C2 on first rotation and had blood clot and flew out of C1.

Yoder (Lhotse member) he reached C2 and decided he did not want to carry on.

Richard Draves turned back during Everest summit push after about 30 mins at about 7900m. He was in the tent with Swart and did not feel too good himself, so he turned back.

Hernandez reached BC, but had HAPE.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 for all members, from C4 to top to C4 for Sherpas.

  • 내부 원정 ID11062
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER23106
  • 대장Garrett Madison
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 35명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Garrett Christian MadisonUSALeader성공사용-
Terray Ellington SylvesterUSAClimbing Leader성공사용-
Danah Ahmed Abdulla Al AliUAEClimber성공사용-
Claudio Javier (Cacho) BeizaArgentinaClimbing Guide성공사용-
Debbie Joan BultenCanadaClimber성공사용-
Richard Powell Draves Jr.USAClimber-사용-
Carlos Alberto Miguel HernandezMexicoClimber---
Steven Benjamin HormikGermanyClimber성공사용-
Pieter Tjerk HorsmanNetherlandsClimber성공사용-
Richard Michael IrvineCanadaClimber성공사용-
Mark Steven KingUSAClimber---
Serge LaroucheCanadaClimber성공사용-
Philip Ephraim LaskSwitzerlandClimber---
Stephane Mayer MilletteCanadaClimber---
Eva PerglerovaCzech RepublicClimber성공사용-
Bruce Davis SmithUSAClimber---
Petrus Albertyn SwartCanadaClimber-사용사망
Erwin Theodoor Bernardus VisserNetherlandsClimber성공사용-
Scott Donald WebsterUKClimber성공사용-
Chhiring BhoteNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Ang Phurba SherpaNepalSirdar성공사용-
Dawa Sange SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dawa Tenji SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dorchi SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dorje Gyalzen SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dorji SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Kami Dorje (Kamdorji) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lakpa SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingma SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingmar SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Ngima Norbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Chhiri SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Sange SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Tenzi SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dhan Bahadur TamangNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

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