원정 개요

Report from Ralf Dujmovits:

Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje, Island Peak

BC 5350m
C1 6000m
C2 6440m
C3 7100m
C4 7900m
HPt 23/05 7300m by Dujmovits

Nancy Hansen was attempting Nuptse. She got as high as ??, but decided to abandon her plan as it would have been too hard and dangerous to do it on her own.

When Dujmovits reached C2 on 23 May he applied CPR on Ang Kami Sherpa, a cook who then died in his hands. The image of the dying Sherpa haunted him for the next few days and he abandoned his climb. Left BC on 25/05 by heli.

Sherpas above BC: 1

Oxygen: Not taken, not used


Report from Matthew Lim (17 May smtr):

BC 12/04 5365m
C1 14/04 5900m
C2 15/04 6400m
C3 02/05 7100m
C4 16/05 7950m
Smt 17/05 by Lim, + Dawa Gyalje Sherpa
Benjamin Bruce Mattingly + Pemba Nuru Sherpa
Tang Bin + Ngima Dorjee (Buddha)
Mao Shaoyun + Pasang Ngima
Li Yifan + Phinjo Dorjee
Xuming Gu + Pasang Sona
Zhang Jian + Lakpa Tamang & Bise Bahadur Gurung
Zhu Chunmei + Dawa Jangbu Sherpa

Left high camp at on 16 May at 9 pm. Low winds but poor visibility until about 4 am when the skies cleared. At the summit it was very crowded, saw Kami Rita Sherpa at the top in his striking green down suit for his 27th climb at that point in time.
The way down was very slow due to traffic jams, took 30 minutes waiting time at the Hillary Step. Returned to C4 around 1-2 pm.


Report frm Sajid Ali Sadpara:

BC 08/05 5350m by heli from Annapurna 1
C1 6000m
C2 11/04 6440m
C3 12/05 7100m
C4 13/05 7900m
Smt 14/05 by Sadpara at 2 pm.

Sadpara came from Annapurna 1 and was acclimatised. On summit day, he started at 1:30 am. It was clear and cold. There were about 10 people on the route. Straightforward climb. Further up, it was a bit cloudy and it got a bit warmer. He spent about 15 min on the summit. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 6 pm. During the descent he was very tired and sat down a few times and nearly fell asleep.

On 15/05 it was very windy. A lot of people came up and it was too busy to go down. Due to the wind and the people he spent another night at C3.

On 16/05 he stayed at C2. On 17/05 back to BC.

On 21/05 he left BC to attempt Lhotse.

C2 21/05
C4 22/05 7700m
HPt 23/05 8300m by Sadpara.

He abandoned his climb. It was very snowy and very cold. His feet got too cold and descended to C2. On 24/05 back to BC. Left BC 26/05 trekking to Lukla.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used


Report from Benjamin Mattingly (Grand Himalaya client on Imagine Nepal permit):

Approach: Pangboche, Lobuje

BC 18/04 5350m
C1 28/04 6000m
C2 29/04 6440m
C3 15/05 7100m
C4 16/05 7900m
Smt 17/05 by Mattingly and Pemba Nuru Sherpa at 5:10 am.

On 16/05 the team only arrived at the South Sol at 6 pm due to a long queue on the Lhotse face. On summit day, they left C4 at 8:30 am. There were lots of people on the route. Straightforward climb. They spent about 30 mins on the summit. They descended to C4 where they arrived at 10:30 am. On 18/05 the stayed at C2; 19/05 to BC. Left BC on 20/05 by heli.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C2 by Pemba and Mattingly.