원정 개요

Report from Vibeke Sefland:

Approach: Heli from Pokhara.

BC 05/05 4600m
C1 10/05 5600m
C2 11/05 5800m (lower)
C2 15/05 6600m (higher)
C3 16/05 7200m
Smt 17/05 by Sefland and Cheppal Sherpa at 1 pm.

On 10/05 the weather was very bad and Sefland took 12 hours to C1. She was in the lead, as the Sherpa did not know the way. There were very few bamboo sticks. There was a complete white-out and they had to stop for three hours to wait until the white-out was over.

On 11/05, they ascended to lower C2 in better weather, however, as the weather was bad, they stayed for four days. On 15/05 higher C2 and on 16/05 to C3.

On summit day, team left on 11:15 pm on 16/05. It was a bit windy but otherwise Ok. They were behind the fixing team, which slowed them down. After Carlos Soria’s rescue (see below) they stopped for about two hours before they could continue. The fixing team stopped fixing the rope at about 7800m and then decided they were too tired and descended. There was one Sherpa, who fixed the couloirs.

They spend about 30 minutes on the summit and celebrated Norwegian National Day! On the descent, they were caught in a white-out, which slowed them down again. They had to break trail again on the way down.

Carlos rescue:

On the traverse at about 7700m, there was a Sherpa in front of Carlos Soria and Sito Carcavilla who had bad footwork. He fell and slid down at 4:46 am but was still on fixed rope because Carlos and Sito stopped it with their ice axes. The Sherpa climbed up again but during his ascent, he slipped again. And this time, he dragged another Sherpa, Sito and Carlos with him [Carlos suffered a broken leg]. This was at 4:52 am. The whole party stopped for about two hours, during which Carlos was dragged down to Camp 3 by Sito, Mikhail and three other Sherpas. They arrived at C3 at about 4 pm. In the meantime, the two Polish climbers Bartek Ziemski and Oswald Pereira had arrived by heli to Camp 2 from Kathmandu and ascended to C3. When they reached C3, Carlos and Sito were there. They had brought a stretcher, put Carlos in the stretcher and descended to higher C2 and to Sefland’s tent. She had just come back from the summit and had met them just below C3 on her descent. She told them that they could use her tent at higher C2. She continued to prepare the tent with hot water, mattress, sleeping bag, etc. The rescue team arrived between 11 pm and midnight. Bartek and Oswald were so cold, and they descended to the normal C2, where they stayed the night. Sefland stayed with Carlos and Sito till 2 am and descended to the normal C2 at 6400m where she met Chhepal Sherpa who was sleeping. She arrived at 3 am.

On 18/05 Bartek and Oswald with a new Sherpa team ascended to high C2 to bring Carlos down to the heli-pad at lower C2. At around 10 am [flown out] by Simone Moro.

On 18/05 Sefland descended to BC. Left BC on 19/05 by helicopter to Takam, Takam to Pokhara by jeep.

Oxygen: from C3 to summit to C3 by all members and Sherpas.