원정 개요

Approach: via Dana trekking

BC 05/04 4200m
C1 06/04 5,66m
C2 07/04 5540m
C3 15/04 6330m (lower camp)
C4 16/04 6700m
Smt 17/04 by Pereira and Ziemski at 7 am.

On 11/04, they ascended from BC to C2 and found that the tent they had left up there on 07/04 was swept away by an avalanche. They descended to the lower C2 at 5500m and slept in a tent from a French climber who gave them permission. On 12/04 back to BC and on 13/04 they ascended to C2 to search for their tent but could not find it. They descended to the lower C2 to sleep. On 14/04 back to BC.

They lost sleeping bags, ropes, mittens, ice axes, food, batteries worth about 5000 Euros. Fortunately, they could borrow some gear from fellow climbers and continue the expedition.

On 15/04, they ascended directly from BC to C3 which took them 9 hours. On 16/04, they reached C4 and rested there for a few hours and started their summit push at 9 pm. Ziemski carried his skis but had previously used them to skin up to C2 which worked well. However, beyond C2 it was too steep to skin up. The climb was straightforward, and they spent about half an hour on the summit.

Ziemski skied down from the very top to C4 where he waited for Pereira. It took him about 20 mins while Pereira arrived at about 11:30 am. Ziemski skied all the way to C3 without rappelling and when he got there, he got a radio call from BC to tell him that the Indian Anurag had fallen into a crevasse. When Pereira arrived, they packed up C3 and descended to the crevasse. On the descent between C3 and the crevasse, Ziemski rappelled three times (10m; 12m; 12m). Ziemski wanted to get to Anurag as fast as possible and intended to collect rope on the way, but could not find any. Pereira collected about 50m of pieces of rope on his way. When he collected the last piece of rope, he half fell into a crevasse. Ziemski arrived at the crevasse, where Chhepal Sherpa was waiting. Pereira came down, but during his descent there were several avalanches. At about 4:35 pm when they were both at the crevasse, they decided that it was too risky to attempt a rescue as the mountain threw avalanches and rocks at them. They descended to BC where Ziemski arrived at about 6 pm and Pereira at 10 pm.

Ski Descent:

On the rotations, Ziemski skied from C2 all the way to 4100m.

After summit: All the way from top to C3, from C3 to C2 he did 3 rappels of about 12m each.

From C2 all the way down to about 4800m. He could not get to the lower point of 4100m due to lack of snow.

Left BC on 18/04 by helicopter to Dana; from Dana helicopter directly to Dhaulagiri BC.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used
Sherpas: None

They used the ropes fixed by the Sherpas of the other teams.