원정 개요

Report from Adam Bielecki:

Rescue of Anurag Maloo (the Indian climber)

On 20/04 the team supported SST to rescue the Indian climber. Bielecki and Hatala were picked up by helicopter on 20/04 and were taken to C2. They had to ascend for about 30 minutes until they reached the crevasse, which was in a very dangerous place as there were seracs right above it. Bielecki was lowered down through the narrow gap of the crevasse and he saw three holes in the ice. He went down one of the holes and descended the entire length of his rope which was about 60m. At the very end, he found Anurag in a snow-hole completely covered in snow. Bielecki first touched him with his feet and then went closer and Anurag moved, which scared Bielecki and he tought that he had lost his mind. But when Anurag moved again he took a head torch and looked into his eyes and could see his eyes move. He called up and asked for Tashi, another Sherpa who helped him set Anurag up for being hauled up.

The whole rescue effort took about 6 hours and they managed to helicopter Anurag to Pokhara where he was in a hospital for a few days before he could be moved to Kathmandu. On 30/04, Anurag was still in a coma but started to respond. According to Chhang Dawa of SST, he only has a few frostbites which is amazing given the fact that he was out in the open for three nights.

After the rescue the team stayed for another few days at BC as they were contemplating attempting the normal route again. However, due to the bad weather, they abandoned the idea and left BC by foot to Hum Khola on 28/04. Hum Khola to Tatopani by Jeep and then by plane from Pokhara to Kathmandu.

Note: Maloo released from Indian hospital in October 2023.


Report from Moses Fiamoncini:

Approach: From Dana to BC by helicopter

BC 23/03 4200m
C1 Didn’t sleep a C1
C2 28/03 5500m
C3 13/04 6450m
C4 Didn’t sleep C4
HPt 15/04 8020m by Fiamoncini

Climb abandoned on 17/04 due to fatigue.

Left BC on: 17/04

Sherpas above BC: 0

Oxygen: Taken and used by Kaze from C3 to HP 6500m and back to C3
by Moeses on descent from 6450m to 6250m.

Moeses climbed with his partner Ram Kaze from Lukla, Nepal. According to Moeses, he wasn’t his Sherpa, but an equal climbing partner. They started for the summit from C3 at 8 pm on 14/04. Kaze reached highpoint on 6500m just after starting from C3. He turned back at 8:20 pm because he felt not strong enough. Moeses continued alone. Moeses at his high point at around 8 am on 15/04. Felt too tired for last metres to summit. Turned back at an altitude of 8020m. Maybe he lacked some acclimatization. Back at C3 at 9:30 pm. Wanted to do another summit push, but didn’t because Kaze was not good and Moeses stayed with him. Both back to BC on 17/04.

In between C2 and C3 Moeses saw Indian climber Anurag Maloo fall into a crevasse while rappelling at 6000m. He used a wrong rope which was not long enough. On 18/04 Moeses assisted searching for Maloo in helicopter. Later that day in the afternoon he left BC to Pokhara.

Moeses Fiamoncini (HPt: 8020m)
Ram Kaze (HPt: 6500m) (from Lukla?)

Retured to Ktm on 20/04.

Leave Nepal: doesn’t know yet. Has permits for Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga, but is not sure yet if he will go on another climb this season.


Report from Sajid Ali Sadpara:

Approach: trekking via Tatopani

BC 17/03 4200m
C1 24/03 5050m
C2 29/03 5700m
C3 12/04 6400m
C4 14/04 6700m
Smt 15/04 by Sadpara at 12:30 pm

Sadpara left C4 with the fixing team at 9 pm on 14/04. He was the only one not using O2. He carried a coil of rope. The snow was good. When they reached the couloirs it took a long time to fix it. It was a long summit day. He spent about 5 minutes on the summit. It was changeable and windy. He descended to C4, where he arrived at 5 pm.

Left BC on 17/04 by heli to Tatopani.

He stayed in Kathmandu for 10 days and then he took a plane to Lukla and from Lukla to Pheriche and then to EBC.


Report from Arjun Vajpai:

Approach: heli to BC

BC 20/03 4200m
C1 01/04 5000m
C2 -- 5700m
C3 15/04 6400m (lower camp)
C4 16/04 6700m
Smt 17/04 by Vajpai, Hanna & Lakpa Sherpa, Shehroze Kashif, Naila Kiani,
and 3 Sherpas at 7:30 am

Summit team started at 7:25 pm on 16/04. Weather and conditions were good. Ropes were fixed until about 7800m and then the lines were cut. So group had to climb without fixed rope. Straightforward climb. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. Vajpai, Kiani and Shehroze and their three Sherpas descended together and reached C4 at about 12 noon. Hanna and his Sherpa (Lakpa) arrived at C4 at about 5 pm.

Vajpai was very dehydrated as he hardly drunk anything on the ascent and descent. There are no real resting points on Annapurna. When they reached C4, there was no gas, no food so they could not rehydrate or eat. They decided to stay the night despite the lack of food. Lakpa Sherpa had some gas left and gave them some soup.

On 18/04, at around 4:30 am, Hanna’s Sherpa called out that Noel was no longer breathing.

Noel's body was picked up from C4 and brought to Kathmandu. His wife and brother arrived in Kathmandu on 19/04 and they will take Noel’s body back to Ireland.

Descent: team picked up from C4.

Vajpai, Shehroze, Naila felt very bad in the morning, and they were long-lined off C4. The helicopter picked them up at around 10 am and dropped them at BC where they collected their stuff and continued to Kathmandu, where Vajpai and Kiani went to hospital to be rehydrated.

Baljeet Kaur is said to have summitted at 8 pm on 17/04. Her Sherpas had left her and she was on the summit on her own. She went missing and was pronounced dead by the media, however, she was rescued by Claudio Mittner, the Swiss pilot, very near to the summit at about 7900m.

According to Vajpai, most climbers from Annapurna 1 were picked up from C3 after the summit!!!

The Polish skiers were already at C3 and they heard that the Indian man had fallen into the crevasse.

Khoo Swee Chiow was also with the summit team, but turned around 7100m.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by all members.


Report from Amrit Kumar Negi:

Approach: To BC by heli

BC 19/03
C1 24/03
C2 29/03
C3 13/04
C4 15/04
Smt 16/04 by Kumar and Sherpa at 6 am.

Kumar and Sherpa reached the summit at 6 am. They stayed for 20 minutes. Good weather and good views. Down to C2 at 11 am. Next day to BC. At BC at 1 pm. Heli from BC to Dana on 18/04, Jeep to Pokhara, one night at Pokhara, then KTM.

No frostbite, no accidents.

Oxygen: Taken and used by Kumar and Sherpa from C4 to summit and down to C2.

Hired: Pemba Sherpa (S)

Leave Nepal: not sure yet, might head to Lhotse and Makalu.


Report from Alina Pekova:

Approach: By heli to BC from Dana.

BC 19/03 4200m
C1 24/03 5060m
C2 29/03 5500m
C3 13/04 6400m
C4 15/04 6770m
Smt 16/04 by Pekova and Sherpa

Pekova and Sherpa were the first of 16/04 batch to summit. Summit by Pekova at 3:30 am, Pasang shortly later at 3:40 am.

They had started at 7:30 pm from C4. Clear and nice conditions, not windy. In the night the wind started to get stronger. Stayed on the summit for 30 minutes, at the very top it was windy and cold. Reached C4 at 7 am. One hour rest at C4 and then on to C3. Wanted to go to C2 straight, but decided at lower C3 to stay there and rest. Slept at lower C3. Next day to BC. On 18/04 heli from BC to Dana, Jeep to Pokhara. On 19/04 by Jeep to KTM.

No frostbite, no accidents.

Oxygen: Taken and used by Pekova from C4 to summit and down to C4.
By Sherpa from 7000m to summit and down to C4.

Hired: Pasang Sherpa (S)

Other peaks: Might go to another 8000m peak later this season.