원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C1 as same as Mexicans (but this was not Scott C2)
High point near ridge.

Slow to make C2 because some members not feeling well and on 6th April Koch fell 10m below C2 site while fixing rope & broke his leg. C3 never established: few members really wanted to do much climbing; 2 members went up to 200m below C3 site, fixing ropes; other 2 also up towards site but to C2 only and Sherpas' death occured in C2 that night: Sherpas had been singing and praying but suddenly silent; 2 members called out to them after few minutes, no reply, member went from their tent to Sherpa's tent and found Sherpas unconscious and one no longer breathing; members tried mouth-to-mouth resuscitation and oxygen (which had in all camps) but both died of carbon monoxide poisoning and they were buried in crevasse (steep ice face too difficult to bring down and weather bad with snow falling daily and avalanching). Climb abandoned with Sherpas' deaths because of shock to 2 members and Ang Phurba. Ang Phurba had become unconscious also from carbon monoxide poisoning in sealed tent with 2 Sherpas who died 2 days later; also from stove (gas stove) burning inside closed tent; he was given oxygen and quickly revived.