원정 개요

Approach: EBC (at Gorak Shep)

BC 15/10 Gorak Shep
Biv1 01/11 5900m
Hpt 01/11 6300m by Xavier Cailhol.

Climb abandoned on 2 Nov due to cerebral edema of Corentin Gonzalez at Biv 1. Left BC on 2 Nov.

Route: SE Face (Japanese route)

Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Other peaks: Lobuche East for acclimatization

Accidents:
Fine was sick, thus didn’t reach base camp.
Gonzalez got a cerebral edema.

Pierrick Fine didn’t reach base camp, got ill during the approach march. Back on the 17 October in France.

Xavier Cailhol (6300m) and Corentin Gonzalez (5900m) went to dig for various options including the NW Ridge (but its approach was too dangerous), then a direct line connecting the Romanian line to the Scottish line. Eventually chose for a repeat in alpine style of the SW Ridge.

Duet attacked 1st of November until 5900m by the normal route (SE Face, Japanese route). Made a bivouac below a serac. Cailhol went up to 6300m on the same day to check for a better campsite possibility. Gonzalez wasn’t well in the evening, already breathless; then got sick through the night, coughing blood, developing a cerebral edema. In the morning, considering his situation, duet came back down to Gorak Shep, being evacuated by helicopter. Next 3 days at CIVEC hospital for Gonzalez.

About Jean-Marc Morchel accident on AMAD, Cailhol’s report about Pralhad Chapagain management of the rescue. According to Cailhol, Chapagain was overwhelmed by the situation. Cailhol proposed to help for the rescue, being acclimatized (3 days after being back down from Gorak Shep), but Chapagain refused (asked 300E in advance). Cailhol estimates they lost 20 hrs to launch the rescue, knowing Morchel died in the next morning. Cailhol trapped in the middle of the situation, with JMM’s wife contacting him for info. All-in-all a rather unnice last week in KTM. Cailhol will send a report of the non-rescue events.