원정 개요

An entirely new and direct route via the SE Ridge was successfully completed (the first ascent in 2018 was achieved via the west-ridge).

From the ABC at 5100m we followed a valley to the northeast till its end, where a steep slope leads up to the lower end of a glacier on the saddle between Nagoru Far-East and the next peak to its east [Hulang 6374m]. A very steep snow and ice wall leads up to this glacier, which we then crossed to its western end. There a rocky ridge (the SE Ridge) leads up to the summit area itself which is still completely glaciated. The final 150 meters are extremely steep. Here we climbed on solid snow above blue ice up to the flat summit plateau, where the highest point is located a few hundred meters further to the west. Then we descended to ABC.

First attempt: On October 22nd we started to prepare the new route and arrived at an altitude of 5750m in the early afternoon. We refrained from a summit attempt as we might have ended up in the dark on the way back to ABC.