원정 개요

C2 in Cwm (next to British)
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at Col.

Some boulders came down from Lhotse, but C1 was safe; no damage to tent which stayed intact 1 April-22 May (contrary to New Zealanders report to me). C4 pitched 8 April but slept in 26th April. Set up C4 20 April (1st team to pitch this camp) but could not occupy it till 1 May because of bad weather (snow and wind) and again very bad weather 2 May when Islaivilans died. Heavy snowfall from early morning so summit attack for 2 May cancelled and those in C4 descended (none had gone above C4).

2nd summit party to C4 on 9th May. Left col 4 am; 11:45 S Summit and contacted leader at C2; at 2:30 pm again contacted from bottom Hillary Step and at top [of step] 1 man's oxygen exhausted and his bottle left there; at 4:05 pm contacted and said there were on top (slow because one had no oxygen and other had little oxygen) and there did puja with Ganga water. Their descent seen from S Summit; reached C4 at 9 pm without headlamps and slept there (some moonlight through fog).

3rd summit party same people as 1st party, left C4 3:30 am 12th May, when Raj turned back at north side of S Summit because oxygen regulator and mask not working). Other 5 to summit with Mohan Singh last because his oxygen finished at Hillary Step; returned to C4 at 4 pm (Lobsang) and other 4 together at 6:30 pm.

4th Summit party: 6 members and Chhoda Tshering Sherpa (India supporting member) spent 2 nights at C3 because of changable weather, nights of 17th and 18th May, went to C4 19th; 20th blizzard and could not go up, had difficult time descending to C2.

Sher Singh, cook (Indian) who also carried some loads, coming down last ladder in icefall 200m from bottom of icefall, slipped down tilted ladder with nylon sling around his waist. 22 May he died and body on 24th May carried from BC and cremated at Dugla.

Paid royalty for 15 members; had several "support members" but Chhoda Tshering Sherpa, an Indian "from the border area" was only one to go above BC.