원정 개요

Report from Tomasz Koehler:

Approach: Trekking to BC

BC 07/09 4860m
C1 10/09 5750m
C2 16/09 6300m
C3 21/09 6700m
Smt 28/09 by Koehler and Lhakpa Temba Sherpa (Fore-summit)

A lot of snow, with forecast showing a late weather window. Climbed from BC to C2 on 26/9. 27/9 to C3. Plan to summit on 29/9 from C4. But at C3 they got a message saying the weather would change for the worse. Decided to summit on 28/9. Started on 27/9 at around 8 pm. Very crowded between C3 and C4. On the way between camps it became very windy. He decided with his Sherpa to leave fixed rope and pass other climbers.

Had to spend 3 hours only under fly sheet at C4 in the early morning in cold conditions. They decided to give it a try and move on to summit.

They reached the fore-summit on 28/9 at 9 am. On the top for 30 minutes, and back to C4 at approximately 2 pm. Same day to C3 at 9 or 10 pm. Felt very tired and exhausted and decided to get a heli-evacuation. On 29/9 flown out from C3. Heli to Samagaon and then on to KTM hospital. Bad frostbite (grade 4) on left foot.

Oxygen: Taken and used by Lakpa Tema and Koehler from C4 to fore-summit and down to C4.

Accidents: Koehler frostbite grade 4 on big toe of right foot. No amputation necessary.

Hired:
Lhakpa Temba Sherpa from Thame. He summited Everest together with
Swedish climber Richard Ramberg in Spring 2022.


Report from Laura Horta:

Approach: Trekking to BC.

BC 05/09
C1 10/09
C2 13/09
C3 18/09
C4 27/09
Smt 28/09 by Horta and Sherpas (fore-summit at 8160m) at 11:45 am.

Started from C3 at 5:30 pm on 27/09. At 9 pm reached C4 and waited until 6 am. Bad storm in the night. Continued at 6 am, on the fore-summit at 11:45 am. Stayed there for 20 minutes. Down to C3 at 8 am. Next day to BC. Helicopter from Samagaon to KTM on 29/09.

Oxygen: Taken and used by Horta and Sherpas from C3 to highpoint and down to C3.

Accidents: Horta frostbite grade 1 on one finger of right hand. Will heal completely.

Hired:
Pasang Nima Sherpa (HPt)
Rita Gyalzen Sherpa (HPt)


Report from Brett Mitchell (client of Dream Himalaya on Climbalaya pmt):

Approach: Dharapani to Samagaon over Larkya La:

BC 06/09 4850m
C1 10/09 5800m
C2 11/09 6250m
Hpt 12/09 6560m by Mitchell and Tendi Sherpa

Continued until 3 Oct on the mountain, but due to heavy snowfall and avalanche risk we were unable to climb higher. Multiple visits were made to C1 and C2 to attempt to climb higher. Avalanche on 26 Sept forced first retreat. Heavy snowfall and avalanches on 2 Oct forced second retreat. After 2 Oct heavy snowfall occurred again and forced the end of the expedition.

Overall heavy rain and snow were the main issues. We were one of the first groups on the mountain and did early rotations including C1 day trip, then up to sleep at C1, C2 and attempted C3. At the time, I didn't feel 100% when pushing to C3 so we turned around at 6560m and descended to BC. At this point I developed a cough which the doctor recommended waiting a few days before pushing up, but the cough never cleared. Spent 4 nights/3 days in Samagaon to rest up. After this climbed on 26 Sept to C1 on day when avalanche slid above C3 and killed 1 and injured many. Due to avalanche risk at this time we descended to wait a few days for snowpack to stabilize. On 29 Sept returned to C1, then 30 Sept to C2. On 1 Oct we waited for push on 2 Oct, but heavy snowfall of 1.5m on night of 1 Oct ended the planned push to C3 on 2 Oct, then summit on 3 Oct morning. On 2 Oct descended from C2 to BC and observed large avalanche which killed 1 between C2 and C1. Trip ended due to the heavy avalanche risk at that time.

Left BC on 3 Oct. Return from BC was affected by snowfall/rain/weather. Unable to trek out over Larkya La, so took helicopter finally on 7 Oct.