원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm (closer to SW Face than others)
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

After 11th April took members up to C3 to acclimatize, then down to Pheriche to rest and recover strength and back to BC on 2nd May. Col had already been stacked, which done by Sherpas by 25th April. Lhotse Face had some snow by May which made descent easier than it would have been earlier in the season. One summit bid leaving BC 8th May to C2, 10th same to C3; all in C4 on 11th (all 14 in summit party this progress). 12th left C4 at 1:30 am, on top at 10:30 to 11 am and back to C4 at 5:30 pm. These other climbers who waited for New Zealand team to plow the trail, had to wait at bottom of Hillary Step while New Zealanders belayed all of their clients up the ropes they had fixed on the step.

"The thing I don't like about this crowding: the most frightening time of my life." Was standing during descent at the Hillary Step on 2 small steps and with one planted ice axe while 4 ITBP summiters came up past him, roped together but to nothing else and woman kept slipping; each Indian grabbed him for a hand hold as they went up. "I could see myself falling down the SW Face tied to 4 Indians" - Gary Ball.

Use of oxygen:

15 Apr - Weinstein, sick with asthma and bronchitis.
10 May - Ball and 5 clients sleeping in C3.
11 May - all members (but no Sherpas) climbing to C4 and all members and
Sherpas sleeping in C4.
12 May - all members and Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4 and sleeping in C4.
13 May - all descended from C4 without using oxygen.

Climbers early departures:

2 Apr - Pasang Nuru, 23 from Phortse, fell in Icefall at 8:00 am on 1 April.
Had not followed instructions to clip into fixed ropes while descending,
tripped, pitched head first and hit his head on block of ice.
Internationatal team of doctors (including a neurosurgeon) kept him alive
until helicopter evacuated him to KTM from BC on 2nd April. He
recovered with slight amnesia and walked into BC towards end of climb.
15 Apr - Weinstein left because of bad asthma and bronchitis.
4 May - Kopff pulled a rib muscle and left BC.
6 May - Young frostnipped fingers and left BC.