원정 개요

Report from Moeses Fiamoncini:

Approach: Heli to BC.

BC 06/09 4850m
C1 5600m (no sleeping at C1)
C2 13/09 6300m
C3 14/09 6650m
C4 26/09 7450m
HPt 26/09 7450m by Fiamoncini.

Climb abandoned on 03/10 due to bad conditions, avalanche danger.

Fiamoncini with his client Morandi. Morandi abandoned climb at C2 on 20/09. He had to go back to Brazil for personal reasons. Fiamoncini had two summit attempts. First summit attempt abandoned because of strong winds at C4. On second attempt Fiamoncini abandoned climb because of avalanche between C1 and C2. One Sherpa died. High avalanche danger on mountain. On 03/10 decided to abandoned climb. Descended from C3 to C2, then heli to BC and on to Samagaon.

Oxygen:
Taken and used by Morandi in descent from C2 to C1
Not taken or used by Fiamoncini.

Hired:
Changba Shepa (6300m)


Report from Sophie Lavaud:

Approach: Trekking via Larkya La

BC 12/09 4700m
C1 16/09 5600m
C2 21/09 6400m
C3 22/09 6600m
C4 30/09 7350m
Smt 01/10 by Lavaud, Lakpa Temba Sherpa at 6:50 am (True Smt).

Dawa Sangay reached C3 on 29/09. He was sick at C1 already during the summit push. He was very weak and reached C3 with the rest of the team and decided to abandon the expedition out of fear that he would deteriorate, or Sophie would not reach the summit because of him.

Du Sartel, Lavaud, Lakpa Temba and Nima, a kitchen boy from SST, reached C4 in very high winds, about 60 km/h. A lot of other expeditions turned back that day. Sophie rang her weather forecaster who told her to stay as the wind would drop at midnight. The wind dropped and the four set out at 1:30 am on 01/10. It was a perfect night. Only a few people, no wind and clear. After about 3 hours Alex was tired and cold and went down with Nima, the kitchen boy. The had reached about 7600m. They returned to C4 and waited for the rest of the team.

Lavaud and Lakpa Temba continued in good conditions. They reached the REAL summit via the descent route which traverses along the fore-summit and then goes up to the real summit. The rope fixing Sherpas had fixed one ascent route which went OVER the fore-summit and down and up to the real summit and the descent route that traverses.

They spent about 10 minutes on the summit, picked up Nima and Du Sartel and continued to C3, where they picked up Dawa Sangay who was better. Everyone descended to BC where they arrived at 5 pm.

Left BC on 02/10 by walking to Samagaon and heli to Arughat on 03/10.

Oxygen:
Taken, and used from C3 to high point to by Du Sartel
Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Lavaud and Lakpa
Taken and used from C4 to high point to C4 by Nima

Sherpas:
Dawa Sangay (always with Lavaud)
Lakpa Temba (14/05/1985) Makalu-9

From Sophie Lavaud Facebook:

MANASLU 8163m Main summit

We reached camp 4 at 7430m on Sept 30 in appalling conditions, with winds peaking at 60 km/h. Doubt is there and I see failure looming. On the other side of the planet, in Chamonix, Yan Giezendanner sends me weather reports twice a day. He is confident, "it's going to work," he writes me, "the wind will fall tonight". Many climbers came back down, "too much wind, not possible"... and we settle down as best we can in our tent. The hours are ticking away, obviously, it's impossible to sleep with this noise. The atmosphere is special. Moreover, Sangay fell ill between camp 1 and 2, he really suffered to reach camp 3 and his decision is taken not to continue so as not to compromise my summit push. A young Sherpa, Nima, takes over.
Doubt is growing.

In our tent at camp 4, the hours pass, and indeed the wind calms down. Lakpa Temba, Alex, Nima and I decide to leave for the summit at 1:30 am, the stars are out and the sky is calm. These few hours of calm allow us to make good progress but the cold and the fatigue win over Alex who decides to turn back with Nima. With Lakpa Temba we reach the REAL summit of Manaslu in good conditions at 6:50 am on October 1st.

This famous REAL summit that has been the subject of so much discussion in recent months. We are almost alone on the summit. Incredible when you consider that there are about 400 permits registered this season! A few photos later we start the descent, meeting Alex at camp 4 and Sangay at camp 3. All together we went back down to the base camp safely. Despite a very chaotic season, this lull of a few hours in the night allowed us to reach the magnificent Manaslu summit at 8163m.