원정 개요

Report from Kristin Harila (from the Sherpas Newsgrout):

The story from Manaslu, 8163m, 22.09.2022

Manaslu was probably the hardest summit push I ever had!

We started out from BC on Monday, and Tuesday we had a short climb to C2. Heavy snowfall, and the weather forecast looked like more snow the night to 22.09. We talked about climbing down, as most others did, but luckily we decided to
climb up to C3 to see if the weather forecast was wrong.

We knew it would be a long summit push from C3, so we started out already 8:30 pm. We had incredibly beautiful weather! Trails half way up to C4, but the last half way we had to break trail and pull up the rope. We heard some avalanches when we climbed.

An hour after C4 Alexandra turned around after getting an asthma attack. Of course I wanted to be there, but when we got the news on the radio that she has decided to turn back, we were already too far away. I'll talked with her on the radio and understood that she was in a bad situation. Simone Moro landed in C3 and flew her to the hopital in Kathmandu. She is all fine now!

Deep, heavy snow, and no trails made it very challenging! Finally we made it to the summit ridge. Many small avalanches when we stepped on the ridge, and I have to say just getting to the fore-summit is not easy in this condition.

We rappelled down, did the traverse and climbed up to the middel top. When I climbed up here, heavy snow came down on me, and the last part to the real summit was not easy either.

After 19 hours, we finally reached the summit. On the way up, I wasn't sure if we would make it, but I was so motivated to get it done!

Thinking about going back next week, with so many people waiting for the next
summit window in BC, made me really want to reach the summit. It will not be any easier next week, even a lot of people also means trails.

I have never been so happy to reach a summit!

Many say that Manaslu is one of the easiest 8000m. Maybe, in good condition! But I think it is good to remember that the condition on the mountain have a lot to say about how easy the climb gets!

Thanks to Pasdawa and Dawa Onju Sherpa for great teamwork.


Dr. Priti Bhusal Facebook, 3 Oct 2022

Due to the bad weather (heavy wind @50-60km/hr) at camp 4 and above on 28th Sept 2022 forced me to opt out to summit Manaslu this year from camp 4 (7400m).

Nevertheless, I was able to serve the people who were hit by the avalanche in between camp 3 and camp 4.

On 26th September 2022, When I just touched camp 3, I could see the avalanche coming from the camp 4 down. At first, I was just staring at the scenario and people were shouting and crying around. Later after 30 to 45 minutes, people affected were evacuated to camp 3. I feel privileged that I was strong enough at the height of 6900m to treat the affected ones with some medical stuffs I had by providing with primary management. There were the cases of shoulder dislocation, tibia/fibula dislocation, rib fracture, soft tissue injury and many. Only 2 cases were evacuated via helicopter that day and rest couldn't due to bad weather. As we know that in the mountain Sherpa are the real hero. But that day when they were crying seeing their friend injured and affected by the avalanche broke my heart. The only sentence that came was "Dai, please don't cry, nothing will happen and I am there for you all". I did not realise until someone in basecamp told me that this sentence was a big thing coming from my mouth which gave them so much relief. There were also two medical doctors from different country which helped me alot and I learnt alot from them. Coming from different country, there are some legal boundaries to make some important decision so me being there made a lot more easy. For me also having some doctors eased the situation alot.

After descending from the camp 4 to 3, there was one case of hypothermia/frostbite with low GCS. I made sure that the case was warm and evacuated as soon as possible.
Serving above the height of 6800m (above the cloud) was the greatest achievement in my life so far.

Manaslu mountain of spirit examined my consistency in serving others at that altitude and overcoming obstacles.

This time Manaslu weather was very harsh for every climber. Even the local/ mountain guide working for so many years were suprised to see the worst condition of the weather.

I feel blessed that this time I met so many climbers and have become more familiar with the climbing community (who are the heart of the country). I made so many friends from different country for life. I feel so proud of that and these matters alot.

Earlier before starting my climbing journey I have chosen 3 mountains because each mountain teaches you something and examines you.

I came to Kathmandu on 30th May 2022. I am now on my usual duties and activities. I would like to thank each and every one who have supported me and prayed for me all the while. I would like to give special thank you and congratulations to Panchakanya Group, for entering in 50 years and also Rotary Club of Kasthamandap, Blue Mountain Resort Kathmandu for supporting me in this journey.