원정 개요

AACZ = Alpine Club of Zurich (Akademischer Alpenclub Zürich (it's their 125th Anniversary expedition)

13 members on climbing team, plus 6 on trekking team.

Approach: Flight to Simikot, 4 days trekking to BC.

Other peaks: P5500m for acclimatization on 03/10.


Group had a permit for Lachama Chuli (LCHA), but it soon became clear that an attempt could not be undertaken because of excessive snow on the mountain. Initial plan was to climb SW Ridge of Lachama Chuli and to do the first ascent from the Nepal side.

They turned their attention to two smaller peaks nearby instead, possibly never climbed before. P6122 north of Lachama Chuli on the Nepal-Tibet border, and P6076, southwest of Lachama Chuli.

They set up a shared base camp for both peaks at 4400m before the Lachama Glacier on 02/10. On 03-04/10 they explored the area around and some members scaled a 5500m high view point in the vicinity of base camp. On 05/10 there was a storm.


P6122 (30°11'20.56"N 82° 9'45.39"E)

Climbing route: South Face of East Ridge, last 500m on East Ridge.

C1 12/10 5200m at lake above Lachama Glacier
C2 14/10 5600m above icefall on SE side of P6122
Smt 16/10 by 10 members (Simutis, Crepaz, Jud, Alegria, Brunner, Frank,
Steinmeier, Walo, Hermann, Revaz)

10 members climbed P6122 north of Lachama Chuli. Started from C2 at 5:30 am on 16/10. On the summit at 11 am. Good weather. Some members back to C2 and some down to C1 at around 5:30 pm. A few 30m abseils necessary on descent.

Normand helped breaking trail to C1 and then turned back because he suffered from fever (COVID). Skawran took a fall near C2 and abandoned climb after.


P6076 (30° 7'21.78"N 82° 8'56.99"E)

Climbing route: South Ridge

Four members climbed the South Ridge of P6076. Approach along Lachama Khola, group had to break trail for 2 days to get to Advanced Base Camp. “ABC” at 5000m on glacier moraine on south side of peak. One high camp at 5400m.

ABC 14/10 5000m
HC 16/10 5400m
Smt 19/10 by 4 members (Popov, Trellu, Heikkila, Bonnet).

Started from high camp at 6 am. On the summit at 3:30 pm on 19/10. Back to high camp at 10 pm. Next day down to BC. Good weather until 2 pm, afterwards it got cloudy. Good views towards the south, but cloudy to the north.

Normand and Marti reached HP at 5500m (Marti was the expedition doctor).
Brown reached HP at 5300m.
Laeubli and Skawran reached HP at C2 of P6122 at 5600m.

For a detailed day-to-day expedition account including photos see:

https://aacz.ethz.ch/about-us/anniversary-expedition-125-years-aacz/expedition-update-tracker/

Team met two Polish climbers trying Lachama North. They didn’t get higher than 5200m due to bad conditions according to Normand.

Team left BC on 23/10.