원정 개요

After C3 2 weeks blizzard. After C4 on 6th May placed but not slept in, down because ran out of food at C2 and down to BC to rest. 9th May 4 members up to C2, 10th rested in C2, 11th C3, 12th 4 members and 4 Sherpas arrived at C4. 13th tried to get out of tents, 2 Sherpas felt sick and down. Then Ang Rita said now too late to go to top so another night at C4 and Galician's gave 6 bottles of oxygen and regulators (50% of our success was Galician). 14th Valle's laryngitis became serious but 15th he tried for summit anyway. At 3 pm Purto, Pratt and Ang Rita started up; at 3:30 3 members and Ang Phuri started up. Met 1 Chilean from E Face at 8500m, at S Summit met leader of E Face Chileans, and at summit met 3rd E Face member. To top Purto, Pratt & Ang Rita at noon; others from his team Valle turned back at 8500m (using oxygen and sick), Garcia at 8600m and Luchsinger at 8700m (dehydrated, not using his oxygen). Purto fell into crevasse with one leg and returned to C4 at 5 pm an hour after Ang Rita. All of this summit party spent another night at C4, Purto receiving no welcome from his teammates; down to BC on 17th.

On Summit on 15th in this order:
2 E Face Chileans / Americans
Purto
Ang Rita
Pratt
Spanish Army
American Sherpa
Ang Phuri
3rd E Face Chilean

Each Indian grabbed Purto for a hand hold as they went up.