원정 개요

NW Ridge
1 May - 6500m at Palung La
Biv 8 May - 7000m on NW Ridge
Biv 9 May - 7300m.

Did acclimatization climbing in BC area to 6300m. Did alpine-style ascent alone starting in C1 on 5th, C2 on 6th, C3 on 7th (these camps not yet pitched -for him these were bivouac), taking tents with him as far as C3, which he left for others. 8th May left 5:45 am Nepali time and on top with 1st 2 Italians and Belgian woman and her Sherpa at 2:45 pm Nepali time and slept in C3. Returned to ABC on 9th May. Got some slight frostbite in his toes but not serious. Kinne and Wahl 11th May after making C3 tried for top but too much snow and turned back almost immediately and down to BC. Other made summit bids via normal route but reached only 6800m and 6400m on 18th May; too cold to continue.

New route: 1st May 2 members made a camp at Palung La (6500m); 2nd May Lutterjohann, Kinne and Koblitz went up to Palung Ri to acclimatize and see NW Ridge and down to ABC; 2 members to Palung La camp. 8th May they went to bivouac 7000m on new ridge; 9th May traversed W Face of NW Ridge to bivouac at 7300m; 10th May not well enough acclimatized so were weak; ice up to 80 degrees and rock grade 3 (= not very difficult); turned back and joined teammates on normal route.

Then decided all members would go to C3 with most going to top on normal route while ridge pair would return to their ridge route. Ridgers started up from C2 17 May and reached C3 and slept there while 4 others were a ABC. 18 May wind grew strong and now Zulegar tried to go out of camp but forced back into tent by wind (did not have all their warm clothing which had been stolen at C1 by yak drivers). 19 May weather better and tried for top via normal route. Koblitz turned back very soon, too cold. Zulegar went on but much snow and alone not able to continue beyond 7500m and both to ABC. 19th to whole team decided to abandon climb and all in ABC that night. Left ABC 26 May and 28 May left Chinese BC by car.

Oxygen used only by 1 sick Italian from another expedition.