원정 개요

Report from Aleksandr Eliseev:

Approach: KTM-Besisahar-drive to Hongde-trek to BC

BC 18/10 3800m
C1 21/10 4800m
C2 24/10 5450m
C3 25/10 6080m
C4 08/11 6500m
C5 11/11 7030m
Smt 13/11 by Eliseev and Dergachev at 2 pm.

The following six members reached C5 at 7030m:
Oleg Afanasev, Pavel Chernov, Denis Aleksenko, Sergei Melnikov,
Andrei Dergachev, Aleksandr Eliseev

The other members reached C4 at 6500m:
Ivan Aristov, Andrei Glushkov, Denis Kuzmin, Andrei Filimonov,
Vitaliy Davydych, Igor Romanov, Gennadiy Dolgov, Yuri Panov

The first summit attempt was on 12 Nov. Left C5 at 9 am. There were all 6 of us. We made it to 7150m, then turned back because the winds were too strong about 60/70kms. We spent one hour climbing up, saw it was impossible, then descended back to our 2 small tents at C5. The others didn’t want to try again because it was just too cold and windy. On 12 Nov they all went down to BC whilst us two remaining continued the climb to the summit on 13 Nov.

The second attempt was on 13 Nov. Team left at 8 am. The weather was very clear, but the wind was different – sometimes silent, sometimes strong. It made us very nervous. We hesitated many times. We spent about 1 hour on the summit. The conditions were the best. Clear. Little bit of wind. We descended to C4 at 6500m where the snow cave was set up. Arrived at 7 pm. Next morning left at 9 am from snow cave, made way to BC on 14 Nov. Arrived there BC 6 pm.

Our first idea: we wanted to climb for C4 to the top in one shot. But it was not easy, it was too long. On 9 Nov we tried to go to the top from C4. We ascended to about 7000mt at about 11 am. It was too late to continue. If we kept climbing we would be descending in the dark and the weather was going to be too cold, it was too risky. We returned to C4 at about 1.30 pm that day.

The next day 10 Nov, we rested at C4. Snow cave was warmer and quiet and no wind, better than when you are in a tent. We can stand up, walk a little and cook. We can also watch cinema on our phones! The snow caves were difficult to make because the snow was hard, it took us 5 hours. We made two entrances, and inside there were two rooms with a corridor going through.

Taam left BC on 15 Nov, walked one day to Hongde. Stayed there 1 night. Next day 16 Nov drove to Besisahar.

We used 400n of fixed rope; little bit below C2, little bit below C5, little bit below C3. Ropes are still there. Too tired to clear the ropes. We were also too scared, too tense and our back packs too heavy.

Most technical part was a little bit below C5, there was a snow wall about 15m, it was vertical, but snow, no ice. I used snow bars like ice tools in both hands and dug steps with my feet. Ice tools were of no use and wouldn’t have done the job. The snow was not hard enough to make anchors.