원정 개요

BC above Mingbo
C1 at normal C1 site
C2 at normal C2 site "Red Towers" camp.

Made 1st summit attempt on 3 April; reached site of normal C1, snowstorm blew up on 4th and turned back leaving tents at C1 and descended to BC. 8th started up again reoccupied C1. 9th moved everything to C2. 10th to top at 4:30 pm having left camp at 4:30 am; reached C2 at 1:30 am in slow careful descent in clear night with some moonlight but some cold wind; had gotten off the Ama Dablam and below problem area before night fall. Back in BC 11th.

Very, very dry - all ice very hard and very technical. This made it technically very exciting - rock all bare and easy to climb. Had only 1 climbing rope; fixed ropes from previous expedition's removed but very unsafe because so much snow and ice had melted.

Had only one climbing rope and one for rappels. Fixed ropes from previous expeditions remained but very unsafe because so much snow and ice had melted.