원정 개요

Original Plan: The team plans to climb unclimbed Phu Kang and two other peaks 6566m and 6670m (approx) west of Phu Kang ridge.

Approach: Drove to Koto, trekked to Meta, Kyang, Phu, Yak Kharka.

BC 22/04 5000m (below Sangha Peak)
ABC 24/04 5400m
C1 30/04 5800m
C2 03/04 6200m
Smt 04/05 by Kim Mi-Gon, Kang, Jang, Lee, Kim Min-Soo, Chhiring Sherpa
and Dawa Tshering Sherpa at 10:30 am.

The Phu Kang Korean team set up its BC at the base of Sangha Peak. The ABC was on a snowfield away eastward walk down about 200m and continued along the glacier about 4km. C1 was on the glacier mixed with icefall. C2 further eastward hiked up a snow peak of 60° slope and behind the ridge below 50m. From C2 hiked up 300m then slope down the ridge 400m. Then climb up the snow face with seracs, small crevasses about 800m on south side to the summit. The team consisting of five members and two Sherpas made its summit push from C2 at 2 am on 4 May. At 10:30 am the team was on the summit. All stayed on the summit for 2 hours, then started bit of snowfall and went down to C2 where they arrived at 3:30 pm. Slept there. Next day on 5 May all went down to BC. At the beginning weather was fine with mild wind, but on descent started snowfall and that became heavy when they reached C2.

Leader KIM said that the GPS shows the peak in Tibet, 150m to 200m beyond the border.

Left BC on 5 May for Phu.

Fixed rope from C1-C2 and above some places (1400m).

Route: South side.

Record First ascent.