원정 개요

Report from Yorick Vion:

Approach: EBC trail

BC 21/04 5350m
C1 24/04 6076m
C2 25/04 6500m
C3 12/05 7100m
C4 13/05 7906m

EVER Smt on 14/05 by Yorick Vion and Tsering Sherpa at 5 am.
LHOT Smt on 15/05 by Yorick Vion and Guru Gengen Sherpa at 6 am.

Acclimatization:

24/04: first sleep at C1
25/04: first sleep at C2
26/04: touched C3 then back to sleep at C2
27/04: C2 to BC.

Spent a week alone in BC.

Summit schedule:

11/05: BC to C2
12/05: C2 to C3
13/05: C3 to C4. Started at 19:30 from C4 for the top.

14/05: summit of Everest reached at 4:30-5 am with Tsering Sherpa, stayed between 30-45 min. Back to C4 in the morning at 8 am. Stayed there one hour. Then went down at 7700m to Lhotse advanced camp.

15/05: started at 2 am, summit of Lhotse reached with Guru Gengen Sherpa at 6 am, stayed on top half an hour. Back to C4 with his Sherpa, then to C2 ushering down a very tired client of the agency (Aziz Abdileilidaghi).

16/05: C2 to BC
17/05: left BC.

Nadine Laborde left the expedition prior to the end.

Oxygen:
EVER: C4 to summit to C4, with sleeping at C4 on the day before the summit.
LHOT: advanced 7700m camp to summit back to 7700m.

Other Everest members:

Marie-Nadine Laborde: Climbed Lobuche East, then on the acclimatization day to C1, after beginning to climb a bit in the Icefall, she turned around and left the expedition.

Thillaimuthu Nagarajan: High point at Balcony according to Vion.

Other Lhotse members:

Sunil Koratagere Nataraj: Climbed Everest, but didn’t attempt Lhotse.

Thillaimuthu Nagarajan: Summited Lhotse with Yorick Vion (started Lhotse at 7 pm on the 14 May); reached Balcony on Everest as a high point.

Jose Armando Navarrete Ulloa: Climbed Everest, but didn’t try Lhotse. Very tired on the way down, fell about 15m in the Yellow Band, stopped by the fixed rope.

Tanya Louise Perret: Came up to a high point below the narrow/climbing section in the couloir (<8300m).

Aziz Abdileilidaghi: Climbed Everest, didn’t go to Lhotse.


Report from Kristin Harila:

BC 17/05 5350m
C2 19/05 6400m
C3 20/05 7200m
C4 21/05 7700m

EVER Smt 2/05 by Harila, Pasdawa, Dawa (uncle of Lhakpa who owns of 8K) at 8:45 am

Team left C4 at 1:40 am. Weather was not so good and it was very windy. There was only one other team on the mountain due to the high winds. They spent 32 minutes on the summit and started their descent to C4 at 9:17 am. They reached C4 at 11:15 am, rested there for 30 minutes and left again for the Lhotse summit push at 11:45 am. It was still windy.

LHOT Smt 22/05 by Harila, Pasdawa, Dawa at 5:43 pm

Team spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at 5:30 am on 23/05.

Left BC on 23/05 by heli to Dingboche (the plan was to fly to Makalu BC, but the weather was too bad so the heli landed in Dingboche where they stayed for one day). On 24/05 they took a helicopter to Makalu ABC.


Daniel Wolfson was a client of Alex Abramov on the 8K permit.