원정 개요

BC at Kangchung's true site
Depot at depot site (but slept in)
Biv on Messner couloir
C1 at south of border.

Never went to Samma Glacier because 1st route too difficult. After making BC at Kangchung, for 6 days carried loads to depot 2 km before Nangpa La. Then 3 members made into Messner couloir up as far as 20,000 ft, where 300m cirque 45-60 degrees rock bowl. So turned back after 1 hour of observation; camped there one night. On 18th went across Nangpa La, saw German BC and not wanting to get caught, decided to abandon Cho Oyu. Camped at 1/2 km south of border and kept camp there until 23rd. On 20th 3 members climbed N Face of Pt 6210m in 8 hrs round trip to top and back. 21st other 3 members repeated climb of Pt 6210m. 22nd only 2 tried at 6600m and got half way up it; forced to turn in start of big wind and snowstorm blowing up. 23rd packed up and retreated to depot, packed up last few loads there and down to BC that night. 2 members tried Pt 6296, got half way of it. McIntyre back to BC 23rd and he and Kilgore left immediately. Marsh had already left, kicked off team (personality conflict and failure to acclimatize); left team 13th or 14th. On 1st night camped at 19,600 ft, [encountered] 4 Chinese students including 1 woman as refugees escaping in street shoes and little food and no tent; US members lead them to depot for safety.