원정 개요

BC 21/04 5500m
C1 24/04 6200m
C2 25/04 6220m
C3 07/05 6900m
C4 08/05 7350m
Smt 09/05 by Gill, Thammineni, Potter, Lhakpa Sherpa, Pemba Chhiring at 8 am,
Van de Kolk, Akash Rai at 8:54 am, Boogaard, Pemba Nuru,
Lhakpa Chhiring at 9:55 am, Mastan, Pasang Sherpa at 10:25 am.

First summit team (Tulpan, Mastan, Kumar, Bushan) left at 6 pm on 08/05 and the second summit team (Potter, Gill, Von de Kolk, Boogaard, Thammineni) left at 8 pm.

Straightforward climb. The ropes were fixed by Pioneer Adventures; however, in the summit section there was partially old rope as Pioneer only fixed to 8400m. The rest was from the previous year. Weather was warm and clear, but around 9 am the weather got cloudy.

On the ascent Boogaard was hit by a piece of ice in his left eye, which turned him temporarily blind but he continued.

The summiters spend about 10 minutes on the summit, but it was very windy and cloudy.

On the descent, at about 8400m, Boogaard tumbled down for about 30m. He was followed by a rock that also tumbled down and hit him in the face. He was hit on the head and he was bleeding heavily. Lhakpa and Pemba helped him and they lowered him down. However, Boogaard got too cold and he decided to continue on his own feet with their help. He was still suffering from blindness due to the ice that hit him on the ascent and the Sherpa gave him directions. They reached C4 at midnight.

On 10/05, the trio descended to C3, where they arrived at 3 pm. They spent one hour there and continued to C2 at 11 pm. On 11/05, he was rescued by helicopter and taken to Kathmandu. He went to ERA hospital for four days. He got stitches on his forehead and his eyelid which was torn.

The rest of the team descended to C2 after the summit, where they arrived at around 8 am. On 10/05 everyone was down at BC. Left BC on 12/05 by helicopter.

People who did not reach the summit:

Tulpan reached about 7900m, but did not feel confident enough to continue. He descended to C3.

Kumar and Bushan reached about 8000m; however, they both had cerebral edema and descended at about 3 am. Their Sherpas (Lhakpa Sherpa and Jangbu Sherpa) helped them down to C4, where they arrived 10 am. They spent the day at C4 and descended with help to C2 on 10/05. They spent another day at C2 and were rescued by helicopter on 11/05 and taken to hospital in Kathmandu. They both recovered.

Krishnan reached BC on 21/04 and two days later he woke up with pink foam on his mouth. He was helicoptered out of BC on 24/04. He had summited Annapurna 1 previously with Peak Promotion.

Gullamarusu reached BC on 21/04. He had contracted UTI on the trek in and was not well. He left BC on 12/05 and never climbed out of BC.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by members and Sherpas.