Himalayan Ascent Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2022
Everest · 2022 · 봄 (1) · Nepal
원정 개요
Report from Kenneth Hutt:
From the website: https://www.flyfromeverest.org/post/a-big-cheers-to-everyone-and-thank-you-for-your-kind-support
I arrived at camp 2 on the 12th May, completely exhausted, I mean completely exhausted. I was suffering quite severe coughing bouts and severe dehydration, but felt I could continue and these impacts could be overcome. The icefall conditions was more difficult than previously negotiated due to the hot weather and the slog up the Western Cwm was done in the extreme heat of the day. Our entire team really did it tough, even our Sherpas. The following day was a rest day, but for me, with chest and breathing difficulties, this was not enough time to recover, not usual for me as I generally recover quite quickly. I was still carrying the Khumbu cough which was getting worse and coming from deeper in my chest - really starting to be of concern.
I decided another rest day was needed and so waved off our other 4 team members who left camp 2 for the eventual summit. They each have stories to tell, 3 of them being successful which personally I found so gratifying as when you spend so much time with them you really start sharing their dream, their challenges and also their success.
Joel, Ludmila and Gabriel, - congratulations and thank you for sharing OUR polio dream - the photos of the END POLIO NOW banner on the roof of the world are brilliant and really cemented our efforts for Polio eradication. Carlos, to attempt Everest without oxygen is superhuman - I’m sorry you didn’t get the view from the top but so close my friend - you should stand proud.
On the 15th May, with Lobsang Sherpa, I left camp 2 with the plan of climbing and spending the night at camp 3, the following day then ascending to camp 4. The plan was then to launch the glider as soon as weather conditions would allow. Not 200m from camp 2 coughing fits started, and non-existent energy levels meant a decision needed to be made. To continue on at that time would be fool hardy. Camp 2 is the altitude limit of helicopter rescue and to continue on puts yourself in quite a dangerous situation should deteriorating health occur. I had made a friend of an experienced high altitude doctor at camp 2, Christian, so returned to seek his advice which he gave enthusiastically.
His response however was not what I was hoping, “as a climber you have spent a lot of energy and resources to get here so I don’t want to say to you to go back, but as a doctor my firm and only instruction is go down. You are not going to get better up here so I think this is you only option. Go down, recover and have another go“. Dr Christian made a preliminary diagnosis, using the limited resources that he had, as most likely pneumonia.
OK, easy decision, let’s get back to base camp, recover and meet the weather window due for the 21st May back at camp 4. A major setback but not the end. We can still do this.
Returning through the ice fall (again) that day, completely drained of energy I went directly to the base camp clinic. There was no sign of any altitude illness so I thought a couple of days down lower would sort out the chest issues.
Unfortunately the chest infection deteriorated. Today is the 23rd May and the chest infection has not cleared. We are of course off the mountain and the expedition has been concluded, Everest season has come to an end until next year.
- 내부 원정 ID10805
- 원본 EXPIDEVER22132
- 대장Sumit Joshi
- 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도8849m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용사용
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 20명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sumit Joshi | Nepal/Australia | Leader | - | - | - |
| Gabriel Franz Bassanesi | Brazil | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Carlos Eduardo Elizeu Canellas | Brazil | Climber | - | - | - |
| Kenneth Neil Hutt | Australia | Climber/Paraglider | - | - | - |
| Michael Keane | Ireland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Joel Szmelsztayn Kriger | Brazil | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Marcus Charles Loane | Australia | Climbing Guide | - | - | - |
| Ludmila Ianzer Jardim Lucas | Brazil | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| James Martin Miller | USA | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Erlend Ness | Norway | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Ronald Quintero | Honduras | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Ang Chhongba Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Dawa Nurbu (Danuru) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Dawa Sonam Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Dawa Tashi Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Furu Sona (Phur Sona) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Lobsang Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Pasang Tenzing Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Phurwa Tenji (Lama Tenji) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Lakpa Dorje Thapa Magar | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |