원정 개요

When came down to BC for Christmas suddenly Belgiums decided to quit. Waited few days for storm to pass, then had to prevent Sherpas from taking down C1 and C2. Wielicki on 28 Dec went up to Cwm to stop Sherpas, other 2 Poles and Ingrid to C2 on 29th but had bronchitis. 30th Wielicki took sleeping bag and equipment to see if C3 intact and try for top alone if good weather while others sick. 31st no clouds and wind and Wielicki went up quickly, not taking time for making C4. Started 4:20 am after having made a tent out of 2 torn tents; Cichy still sick but went up to C3 when saw Wielicki moving up from C3. Wielicki reached bottom of couloir at 10:15 am, 1-1/4 hours later than planned, but couloir was easy in good snow conditions in it. Reached summit 2:00 pm in little wind; returned to C3 at 5:00 pm, pushing and timing himself in descent not to rest too long each time and end up dead like Marcel Ruedi. Felt cold despite all warm clothing and one big toe frostbitten.

No others to try Lhotse top: Ingrid sick throughout expedition; did not go above C2 for Lhotse (to C3 for Everest). Icefall in terrible conditions 40 ladders needed (1 place 4 ladders strung together) vs 2 in 1979-80. Belgians insisted on Everest attempt before Lhotse bid. After Poles prepared Cichy and Van Snick to make Everest bid and after they got to Everest top, Cichy and Wielicki (who would have come to Col) to go from Col to Lhotse summit (not on ridge but little below ridge) but Belgians determined to go home: pressure on Van Snick not to climb over Lhakpa Dorje's body.

Everest effort by Belgians failed - collapsed after 1st bid and Xmas at BC:
1. No strong leadership - Detienne got sick and went to KTM; deputy leader Vreugde interest in scientific research for one month and not leadership; climbing leader Cornellissen not strong personality, too mild; Sirdar Ang Phurba's wife seriously ill and he left BC.
2. Psychological problem of first experience with winter's severe weather - Belgians not prepared for this
3. "Low altitude" sickness - Detienne would have died without use of 3 bottles of oxygen at and below BC.
4. Came too early in season - now is time to be mounting ascent, not Nov
5. Death (in this case Lhakpa Dorje's) is problem for young climbers and Tettelin, who is strong, took death very hard.
6. Few strong climbers: Miss Baeyeons (sick), Van Snick and Tettelin only.

Much money spent on expedition including 3 generators at BC for electric lights, 7 kitchen staff at BC, 2 Belgians at BC only for food and equipment, etc.


Detienne - 24 Dec 88

22nd early 1:00 am 3 start from S Col - 8:00 am reached just below S Col. Lhakpa Dorje sickness, lost control and collapsed in snow. Rudy and Ang Rita brought to South Col tent and gave higher flow of oxygen. Big snow and wind storm, stayed in col with sick man now in coma in late afternoon - 7:00 am died. Rudy and Ang Rita to BC late evening, leaving Lhakpa Dorje at Col; want to bring him down but winds preventing this.

Everest cancelled but 1 Belgian and 2 Poles try Lhotse. Stayed 10-14 days,
others leaving BC 23rd not so well; all others 27th leave BC. In KTM 31st.

On 22 Dec they started at 1 am from South Col toward the summit. At 8 am they reached just below 8700m. Sherpa Lhakpa Dorje collapsed to unconsciousness. Ang Rita and Rudy brought Sherpa to South Col. They put him on oxygen. That whole afternoon Sherpa was in coma. At early morning on 23rd Dec (7am) he died. In South Col there were no other member except summit party.

On 22nd due to very bad weather (storm, windy, snowfall) Ang Rita and Rudy cannot bring down Sherpa body.

After Lhakpa death two climbers left South Col and in the late afternoon, they reached base camp. It was not possible for them to bring down the dead body of Lhakpa due to exhaustion and bad weather.

Sherpa's are going to try to bring down the body if weather permits.

Everest expedition decided to abandon their bid due to this accident, but Lhotse bid be continued with Belgian lady climber.