원정 개요

Approach: Pangboche, Lobuche, Ever BC

BC 19/04 5350m
C1 26/04 6000m
C2 27/04 6440m
C3 28/05 7300m
C4 15/05 7900m
Smt 16/05 by Shurysheva and Dawa Tenzing at 4:22 am, Longman and Furtemba Sherpa
at 8:30 am, Ramkumar Shrestha with Ngima Nuru at 4:05 am, Suraj
Paudyal with Padawa at 4:20 am, and other members.
Smt 21/05 by Ngima Nuru (2nd time) and Padawa (2nd time) with Rajendra Takuri,
Tenjin Sakala Bhote at 5:10 am.

16/05 summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm on 15/05. The route was quite busy and it was blowing hard when they were on the Balcony, but not soo cold. Straightforward climb. They spent about 30 mins on the summit and descended to C4. On 17/05 to C2 and 18/05 to BC.

Ngima Nuru and Padawa rested one day at BC and went back up together with Rajendra Takuri and Tenjin Sakala Bhote for a second summit push. They went with Rajendra Takuri who was the expedition cook and Tenjin Sakala Bhote, who had never climbed Everest. They left BC for C2 on 19/05 and went directly to C4 on 20/05. On 20/05, they left C4 at 10 pm and summited at 5:10 am. Returned to C2 at 5 pm.

Team left BC on 18/05 by heli (members).

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to summit to C3,
Mingma G did NOT use supplemental oxygen.


Report from Marina Cortes:

Approach: Pangboche

BC 19/04 5350m
C1 26/04 5800m
C2 27/04 6440m
C3 28/04 7300m
HPt 28/04 7300m by Cortes, Nima Nuru

On 29/04 Cortes was ready to go to the South Col. but Nima Nuru said that they should go back down to C2 as they were not enough tents on the South Col. They descended to C2 where they spent the night. At 7:30 am on 29/04, Nima Nuru told Cortes that he was going back to BC as he was tired. Cortes stayed at C2 and some other Sherpa came up to replace Nima Nuru. Jit Bahadur was assigned to go back to C3 with Cortes on 30/04.

On 30/04, they set out for C3, but she met a western guide who told her that bad weather was coming. She still continued for 4 hours, but got into a white out. There were avalanches and they turned around and descended to C2. She stayed at C2 for another few days and tried to get back to C3, but the weather was too bad.

On 02/05 she returned to BC. Mingma G came from Kangchenjunga and said he was going to go to the summit with her and Jit Bahadur. Mingma G went back to Kangchenjunga and said he would be back on 08/05. On 04/05, Cortes found out that her 91-year-old dad was seriously ill, which threw her and she wanted to get back to Kathmandu. On 08/05 she flew to Kathmandu, where her husband and children were. In the meantime, her father was better, and Mingma G had arrived back at EBC.

On 10/05, Cortes flew back to EBC, and her plan was to summit on 21/05 as her weather forecast was good for that day. She was going to join Mingma G on his summit push, but for another acclimatization rotation to C4. On 12/05 at 2 am, the team left BC for C2, but Cortes was lagging a bit behind Mingma G and Jit Bahadur. They reached C1 and Cortes wanted to lie down for 30 minutes due to a medical condition she has (seizure in case of lack of sleep). Jit Bahadur and Cortes stayed at C1. Cortes felt very bad and had no voice, but needed a helicopter. She got her sat phone and called for a helicopter. She was evacuated on 13/05. Heli stopped at BC and then went to Pheriche and Lukla.

Cortes went to the hospital in Lukla and she was visited by a Global Rescue representative.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used