원정 개요

Approach:: KTM to Gonggar (small place, few houses with shops, close to a river); 2 hours closer to Simigaon by jeep. Then trekked to Na via Simigaon, Dongang, Beding.
BC 19/04 Na village (4183m)
ABC 30/04 4940m
Biv1 03/05 5900m
Smt 04/05 by Roig and Rubi Pol at noon.
Biv2 04/05 5900m on E Ridge (in descent)

Route: SE Face (partial new line)
Sherpas: None
Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Acclimatization:

Climbed a few low things before Ramdung (5930m) on the 26 April. Llado and Rubi Pol reached top, other two reached up to 5500m.

Considered various other options, took another 3 days exploring with light bags before deciding that it would be Dolma Khang.

30 April: Tried to get up in bad weather. Then only Roig and Rubi Pol went up to ABC, very close to the base of the face. Found a wooden sign at the campsite marked 2017 (Tore Sunde-Rasmussen expedition). All went back down to Beding.

1 May: Beding to Na, then Na to Beding to pick up all climbing gear.

2 May: All 4 went up to ABC from Beding.

3 May: Roig and Rubi Pol left ABC at 4:30 am, reaching a tiny bivouac on the South Ridge, 1000m higher. On this day they went through a long snow gully, 60/65° (snow in bad conditions) with some vertical rotten ice sections (max WI4), the longest of them of 60m. The last 300m were a more vertical mixed terrain difficult to protect.

4 May: On the second day, they started at 5:30 am and through a more technical terrain (with isolated sections of M5) and difficult to protect, reached the top in about 6h 30m (400m higher). They saw some old ropes on the spur near the top (the first ones may be at 200m before the top).

The way down went via the East Ridge through a glacier full of seracs and crevasses. After 50m, descending one abseil was needed, then the rest was down climbing. They were all covered in clouds most of the time so they were navigating between the points they could see from time to time. Once they arrived on the proper ridge, where they not had to worry any more about not getting in a “dead end”, they carried on a bit more until they could find a good place for the bivouac. It was only 4 pm, but they could not see more than 15-20m. They were still at 5900m.

5 May: Starting at 5 am, they did one first abseil, about 200m of down climbing and another 60m abseil to get onto the glacier below, from where easy walking down the glacier got them to the rocks below. At about 12 pm they were at the camp at 4940m.
On that same day we all went down to Beding in about 3-5 hours.

9 May: Camped one night above Tsho Rolpa lake. Intended Parchermo, but bad weather prevented them to try something else.

Left BC on 11 May.